Pipirrana-stuffed heirloom tomato, liquified beans and green tomatoes with raw shrimp

Calima
Cocinero: Dani García
País: Spain
Localidad: Marbella (Málaga)
Dirección: Gran Hotel Meliá Don Pepe. José Meliá, s/n.
952764252

Dani Garcia finds himself at the height of his professional career. 2008 was perhaps the year in which he created best and most, producing dishes with the highest intellectual and material level. Nearly twenty notable formulas sustained by two principles that have defined the work and path of this young chef: to take inspiration from traditional Andalusian recipes, reinventing them according to the canons of haute cuisine, applying the most recent avant-garde techniques, in this case liquid nitrogen, that he tirelessly studies in search of new applications. We stand before an eminent testimony to Andalusian technocracy in which the cultural roots and flavors are perfectly balanced and consummated with technological methods. It is, at the same time, characteristic of Dani’s work to magnify the mise en scène, the impact of the spectacular quality of his cuisine. There could be no more beautiful or colorful staging of his creations.
In a few words, the dish begins in the center with a cold liquified mixture of green tomatoes and green beans (these latter are blanched), perfumed with basil and ginger. Also in the center, the false tomato: a puree of pipirrana (tomato, onion and pepper salad) that appears coated with tomato jelly, taking on the shape of the fruit in question. Surrounding this is a scattering of raw Motril bay shrimp and pieces of raw beans.



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Liquid escarole salad, buffalo cheese consommé, bread and anchovy shavings

Restaurante Villa Crespi
Cocinero: Antonino Cannavacciuolo
País: Italy
Localidad: Orta San Giulio (No)
Dirección: Via G. Fava 18
(+39)0322911902

A worthy preparation that captures all the spirit and history of chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo. The liquid escarole emulsion is poured over a bed of delicate, buttery buffalo cream cheese (burrata). The dish is then completed by a strip of breadcrumbs, pieces of anchovy and aromatic herbs: so simple yet with so much impact! It has everything to do with the ingredients, the perfumes and flavors wrought from the chef’s native region (Campagna), contrasted with reminiscences of the Mediterranean, represented by the Eugenio Pol bread (baker from Fobello, in the high valley of Sesia, at the foot of Monte Rosa in the Piedmont region). In short, it is a voyage from north to south made in a blink of the eyes… and mouth. Everything is a game based on balance: the creamy, unctuous qualities of the burrata, the acidity and freshness of the escarole, the intensity of the anchovies, the perfumes of the herbs and the mountain bread, with its crispiness and fragrance, evoking the rustic aromas and hearth fires of a mountain inn. Ingredients of a humble cuisine ennobled by the hands of the chef.



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“Polenta concia” with mushrooms and Toma cheese fondue

Dolce Stil Novo
Cocinero: Alfredo Russo
País: Italy
Localidad: Turín
Dirección: Piazza della Repubblica, 4
(+39) 011 499 2343

An elegant and refined version of a classic Italian dish in the alpine Piedmont tradition. Alfredo Russo gives form, order and style to this preparation, rustic in origin and aspect: a mushroom cream topped with crispy pieces of truffle and mushroom, covered with a delicate fondue foam made from Toma di Lanzo cheese. A thin disc of polenta crowns the ensemble. The dish is served just warm to better appreciate not just its lightness but also the pure, precise flavor and aroma of the mushrooms as well as the textures, which are balanced with the polenta and the creaminess of the fondue. It is an accomplished example of revised tradition without betraying the principles or flavors of the original. One might even say it has been improved thanks to the excellent selection of ingredients, the quality of the preparations and the proportions used therein.



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Cabbage sushi with ginger foam and prawn ceviche

Villa d´Amelia
Cocinero: Damiano Nigro
País: Italy
Localidad: 12050 Benevello (Cuneo)
Dirección: fraz. Manera
(+39)0173529225

An original interpretation of sushi by Damiano Nigro in which the roll of nori seaweed is served whole rather than sliced, and the rice and fish filling is substituted exclusively with cooked cabbage. The fish element (raw prawn in a light ceviche) is placed on top of the sushi, accompanied by a delicate ginger foam. To give the dish a certain rhythm and intensity, a drop of tamarind is added. Result: a pleasant creation in which the flavor of the prawn, only lightly touched by the bitterness, is dressed with the different textures of marine and earthly vegetables (nori seaweed and cabbage), along with the freshness of the ginger foam and tamarind, expressing all its aromatic intensity. Damiano had the brilliant and daring idea to combine techniques and materials from different continents in a single dish, with the cabbage (a humble vegetable) being the sole ingredient from Piedmont, perfectly integrated in this globally spirited creation.



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My “cima alla genovese”

Antiche Contrade
Cocinero: Luigi Taglienti
País: Italy
Localidad: 12100 Cuneo
Dirección: via Savigliano, 11
(+39)0171480488

A splendid deconstruction/reconstruction of a classic dish from Liguria (the region where the chef comes from). The “cima” is served practically broken down. Each one of its components are “reconstructed” in the dish according to the personal style of the chef, paying homage to his beloved Piedmont region in northern Italy. The distinct elements are arranged over a delicate cooked cream (panna cotta) with peas in such a way that the guest tastes, in different bites, the sweetbreads, the peas and the crunchy pine nuts, the quail egg, the chopped pieces of mortadella, the beef marrow and the rosy slices of beef as well as a subtle veil of green cream that gives consistency and body to the cima (the genius) of Luigi Taglienti.



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Carpaccio de cepes con huevas de caracol y quinoa

Mirazur
Cocinero: Mauro Colagreco
País: France
Localidad: 06550 Menton
Dirección: 30, Avenue Aristide Briand
(+33)0492418686

Mauro Colagreco is one of the most imaginative chefs we have run across in recent years. Each dish he serves is bursting with one or several unprecedented ideas. The guest is left in a state of amazement by the daring concepts, unknown products, avant-garde techniques… all combined with the infinite talent that comes through every construction of this young chef who is well on his way to international culinary glory.



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Creative version of classic Borsch

Cipollino
Cocinero: Adrian Quetglas
País: Russia
Localidad: 119034 Moscu
Dirección: Soymonovsky, built 1
(+7)4956952950

Adrian Quetglas, an Argentine forged professionally in Spain and located in Moscow, is a learned, talented chef who focuses on the most emblematic delicacies in Russia, reinventing them within a modern haute cuisine framework. Some of his proposals include different recreations of the Olivier salad that are truly extraordinary, as well as other dishes, among which the borsch is a shining example. His is a version that preserves the spirit of the dish, sociologically speaking, but sees it strengthened by other added qualities, like the immaculate flavors, the freshness, the sapid complexity and technique, the color… with the beetroot appearing in all its splendor: a consommé of the beet with vegetables and meat with beet jelly ravioli stuffed with sour cream, potato and onion, served with carpaccio, dill and potato chips, among other delicacies. With utter confidence, this is the most refined, light and artistic borsch in history.



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Razor clam in almond oil

Casa Gerardo
Cocinero: Pedro y Marcos Morán
País: Spain
Localidad: 33438 Prendes (Asturias).
Dirección: Ctra. AF 19, Km.9
(+34) 985887797

It is likely that this dish best reflects the style marked in 2007 and then confirmed in 2008 by Marcos Morán. An absolute “10” for the shellfish, served raw and hot over a purely minimalist construction, sapid and colorful, with the magnanimous presence of a nut. Here, the almond appears with a magical touch (oil) and a brushstroke (fat), displaying brilliant contrasts. This concept, these techniques, similar ingredients… they make up the body of a talented repertoire, one which is molding this young chef, called on to take his place at the highest levels of Spanish cuisine.



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Monochrome of Norway lobster

Il Canto - Hotel Certosa de Maggiano
Cocinero: Paolo Lopriore
País: Italy
Localidad: 53100 Siena
Dirección: Strada di Certosa, 82
(+39) 0577288180

Is there a more delicate, nuanced, beautiful and brilliant carpaccio as this monochrome of Norway lobster? Surely not. At least we can’t remember one.
With regard to the raw product, the Norway lobsters are neither frozen nor sliced with a machine, instead they are crushed by hand–a technique employed to fully preserve their flavor and meaty texture. A quick blast of heat from the salamander helps to accentuate the flavor. The magical touches are found in the seasoning: marinated lemon, fresh lemon, lime, mint, ginger, radish, cumin water and salt flakes excite the palate with exquisite and refreshing nuances. And the carrot juice confirms the exceptional chef, Paolo Lopriore, one of the most brilliant culinary artists on the planet today.



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Black and grey rice

Osteria la Francescana
Cocinero: Massimo Bottura
País: Italy
Localidad: 41100 Módena
Dirección: Via Stella, 22
(+39) 059220286

Massimo Bottura is a poet whose cup runneth over with culinary idealism. Enthusiastic, exultant, rapturous… his state of mind comes through in his work, irradiating artistic dedication. Such confidence, insistence and even daring have propelled him, in only a few short years, to one of the icons of creative cuisine in all of Italy.
This black and grey rice, which is one of the less spectacular dishes on the menu, curiously enough, expresses erudition and intelligence–a truly doctoral dish. The sumptuous delicacy is tangible. The rice is soaked in oceanic flavors, with an intense flavor of oysters and, as if that weren’t enough, an inarguable addition:a spoonful of caviar.The staging, nothing short of a painter, eminently talented, makes one want to shut off the lights, close one’s eyes and taste with the soul.



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