Peter Goossens, the most famous of Belgian chefs, is delighted with success he has had. He knows that he is now at the professional summit of cuisine and that much is expected of him. In keeping with his position, he continues to demonstrate a progressive spirit with his reflective and perfectionist style, giving light and splendor to his work. Nothing remains static; everything changes within a single philosophy, which we might define as great French cuisine seen through the eyes of a Belgian with a strong character, leaving his personal imprint along the way. Intelligent, cerebral, erudite, methodical, virtuosic… he mathematically projects his knowledge of refined, balanced flavors with silky contrasts, called upon to please the client who is considered the king of the restaurant here. The effort that encloses each dish and the seriousness that resolves each creation does not go unnoticed. The guest has no choice but to recognize the professionalism of the chef and his immense organizational capacity. And how can one not admire the hidden knowledge and the precision that is employed here, although his talent, boldness, imagination and crafmanshift make no surprise. A cuisine based on craftmanship, more than art. The menu changes frequently and is subject to the seasonal availability of ingredients as well as the mental fertility of the chef. The following is a description of one of the possible ideal menus. If hop shoots (jets de houblon) are in season (springtime) they cannot be missed – not only are they exceptional in themselves but also the preparation here only further magnifies their succulence. In our last visit we were offered two versions, with prawns and translucent slices of pancetta or with oysters and watercress, even more delicious. The fact that Peter uses his intelligence in every articulation is something that no one argues about. For example, the scallops – one of the most generous products here – is served in two preparations, hot and cold, with foie gras, truffles, salsifies and crustacean sauce. The Norway lobster is monumental: beautiful, radiating freshness and juices, whose greatness is seen reinforced by the presence of smoked eel (only fools might leave it), eggplant and curry – a symphony of sensations. The calamari is immense: served practically raw, boasting that particular texture and flavor that distinguishes them when they haven’t been overcooked, swimming in a satiating bouillabaisse (which serves to heat them) with seaweed, reinforcing and giving sapid complexity to this noble and modern “cauldron” of the third millennium. Once more, product with the finest arrogance: a beautiful turbot filet weighing four or five kilos lifted atop a bed of spinach and served with a penetrating béarnaise sauce enriched with lobster – a medallion, a few pieces and the crustacean juices… it warms the mouth with intensity and pepper. Another stellar moment came with the Pyrenees lamb filet, marvelously prepared, cooked in such a way as to allow one to perceive and taste the valor of the meat; it was served with a delightful juice made from the same animal, as well as a Jerusalem artichoke puree, small caramelized endives and a mixture of sweetbreads with wild mushrooms and horn of plenty mushrooms – almost nothing. The desserts confirm the wisdom and consistency of the owner. They are proofs of the refinement and balance of the house: orange with banana, tea, coconut and marshmallow and another dish consisting of passion fruit with bitter chocolate, lime, ginger and pineapple. The assortment of cheeses is rather memorable as well, the wine list offers anything your heart might desire and the service is superb. In short, a restaurant that goes in the line of the Michelin model.

Here again we were confronted with the immense excitement that has always distinguished Stéphane Carrade’s cuisine, as well as the laborious intellectual work that has developed during his quest to find new culinary paths, leading him to mold diverse personal periods over the years such as “the progressive native land”, for example. His efforts have not been fruitless. A great moment in his career is culminating, marked by a noticeable leap forward in the quality of his work, which has been the driving force in attaining this rating. The mental maturity of his creations and his capacity to propose distinct formulas, different from usual tendencies, are what stand out the most. He is like no one else. It might be difficult to precisely define his style today, but what is certainly clear is that his creations are extremely personal. Modern, yet slightly baroque. A contemporary baroque signifying a depth of analysis and meticulousness in the creations. A multitude of small ingredients, preparations and even decorations find their way into each construction, offering endless nuances expressed with pure technique. With regard to the appetizers, the constant, playful acidic and spicy counterpoints keep drawing your attention to them, warming and refreshing the palate at the same time. As for the main dishes, knowledge is supported by impeccable procedure, making the savoir-faire and technique of this chef truly excellent. Not a single mistake–absolute virtuosity. Complex creations sustained with stellar product, unbeatable in some instances, served with a healthy dose of generosity. A chef with exemplary ethics. Nobility alongside simple, precise exuberance seasoned with brilliance and affection: poignant warmth. The restaurant offers three menus in three drastically different price ranges, and one must choose one of them or opt to order off the diminished à la carte menu, which only has seven or eight dishes available. So, Chez Ruffet diners go to eat whatever pleases the chef, who explains his policy quite convincingly: “this is the way to have a few stellar items in their optimal state, and the way to guarantee execution. It is also the way to manage the business of the establishment by preventing ingredient loss and gaining all possible productivity from labor. This is reflected in more competitive prices and in the results, since there is full concentration on what is being cooked.” What was up until very recently a cuisine dedicated to evolved countrymen has now turned its aim towards intellectual gourmets, although the truth is that everyone can understand and appreciate it. We’ll give a few examples, knowing full well that they can only serve to give an idea of what is

Jean-Pierre Bruneau is a part of Belgian culinary mythology. He received three Michelin stars, influenced an era, and now continues to garner an 18 in the Gualt Millau and two stars in the red guide. His curriculum, immense professionalism, and the class of the restaurant, with elite service, help him attain such honors.

Sabin Arana has become fully convinced that he must follow the path laid out for decades by the house—it has given him a considerable reputation and a sizeable client base. Thus, he gets credit for style and menu, which still places a bit more importance on classicism. A cuisine that is clearly and eminently conventional, one of the most accomplished of its kind in Spain. Certain characteristics stand out, the first of which is the elegance and harmony that distinguish its flavors and combinations. The second is the excellence of the ingredients used—be they simple or opulent, they are always superior. And a third virtue that needs mention is that cooking temperature points generally fit into those of modern haute cuisine. It all adds up to a refined, up to date restaurant with traditional tastes. Today, as yesterday, we can enjoy an ethereal Béarnaise butter as a welcoming starter, or the finest talo (a Basque corn tortilla) served with pieces of chistorra (sausage); these are the perennial and irreplaceable aperitifs. There is also a new, impeccable sweet rice dish, with crawfishes of uncommon quality and a rice-thickened broth that recalls the tomato-based sauce that typically accompanied them. Let us continue with another source of glory for the establishment: the pochas (baby white beans) with Morrón pepper (paprika) and vegetable broth, some of the best around. We then needed to relive an unforgettable memory—the roast lobster with fragrances of tarragon and pepper, over an American sauce, was, if possible, more wonderful than ever. And another sensible, flawless addition to the menu is the filet of cod, impossibly delicious and juicy with an extremely delicate puree of peas and a few mushrooms, in this case sliced and wild. And when there is game, it constitutes a very welcome obligation: the turtledove is truly majestic, for the raw material and its bloodiness; accompanied by mushrooms, raisins, pine nuts, zucchini, bacon, etc. Other small trips to paradise at Jolastoki: the unbeatable Biscayan escargots; the generous rice with mushrooms, langoustines and Idiazabal cheese; the iridescent fried hake, embellished with a golden veil and served with bell peppers; and the stately woodcock, among a few other specialties, showing that rigor and constancy have great merit.