There will surely be those who disqualify this proposal for its simplicity and perhaps passé quality. Apparently deconstructions are now old-fashioned and to practice them is relatively simple: imagine following a method – to deconstruct and alter the elements. Seriously, no one but a chef with a bit of talent can imagine what is going to incite desire in the mind of the gourmet. Think of simple dishes like Spanish potato tortillas, garlic soup… and desserts like arroz con leche, Mandarin flan, etc. This intellectual critique is left only with its words when confronted with what is evident: the “foamy cream of egg with María cookie ice cream and cinnamon caramel” provokes an uncontainable gastronomic orgasm and, technically speaking, the dish deserves an “A”. What more can one ask for? Ethereal and delicate foam of cream, super creamy María cookie ice cream and an exquisite, fragrant cinnamon caramel. Euphoric. And further more, it represents an exuberant recuperation of childhood flavors that only lived on in the memories.

In terms of modernity and virtuosity, Jordi Vilà’s cuisine is the most gastronomic in Barcelona. He proposes creative, reflective dishes that are generally inspired by harmony and traditional recipes. He innovates while preserving the essence, without eccentricities. This isn’t to say that on the menu you will find more cosmopolitan constructions bursting with fantasy and contrasts than any other establishment, but this certainly is the case for the raw oysters with spicy coconut soup, squid ink sauce, lime and cauliflower couscous – a brilliant gastronomic rainbow. In a word: immense.

The oysters, of the highest quality, are presented according to the ideals of the culinary canon – without the membrane that surrounds them. A meaty, oceanic sensation bursts in the mouth: waves breaking over the palate, drowning it in satisfaction. Such purity of nature is then impressively redressed with sophisticated accoutrements, engendering art into the dish: gelatinized coconut milk with a light touch of spice, a few drops of squid ink sauce, a synthesis of both with an infusion of sea water, grated cauliflower, lime zest, ginger gummy bear and olive oil. Exciting complements.

It is necessary to use grandiose words when speaking of Gualtiero Marchesi. He is probably the most important chef the Italy has ever offered to international culinary history.

He is truly impassioned by the fine arts; architecture, sculpture and painting mark his work in a notable fashion. For him, the kitchen has been a canvas to express sharp, intellectual beauty onto: riso, gold and saffron; open ravioli; black squid in its ink; Diritti (straight) spaghetti ; Marchesi extravagance; beet risotto… and the list goes on. One of the most recent creations dates to 2005: “dripping di pesce”. A painting inspired by Jackson Pollock in which he restores and reinvents mayonnaise in honor of the dwarf calamari and coquina clams. It is an explosion of gastronomic color: liquid yellow mayonnaise, liquid green mayonnaise of chlorophyll, tomato sauce, black sauce of squid ink, calamari and coquina clams: traditional flavors, sauces with amazing body and an impacting artistic beauty.

This is the most natural, light, fresh, floral, aromatic and colorful tartar in existence. Nature in all its splendor. A delicate Piemontese beef, chopped and ground, seasoned and eaten with hands in its pure state. The flowers, more than simple decorations, powdered fruits – raspberries, currants and rose water –, as well as the arugula, bring gastronomic color to the raw product. The diner is converted into an accomplice, grasping the meat with their fingers, feeling around for the distinct elements; participating in the finished work. Defining possibilities, Massimiliano Alajmo wields his practice as second in command. Adding this or that flower or fruit, taking some away…with the inherent charm of placing his hand in the dish and deciding according to his aesthetic appreciation. And do what he may, he never questions the work of the master, which is above simple categorizations of good and bad, and always approaches everything with a gourmet perspective and an artistic mentality.