The ocean within

Alkimia
Cuisinier: Jordi Vila
Pays: Spain
Localité: 08025 Barcelona
Adresse: Indústria, 79
(+39) 932076115

From the creative hands of Jordi Vilà we have a dish that is so colorful, so attractive, so impactive… like the ocean itself. It is also very delicate, especially when the markets allow for the complete repertoire of shellfish; an oyster, two cockles, a few barnacles, sea snails, a few pieces of seaweed and, sometimes, a spoonful of his majesty, monsieur caviar. Each element expresses its full identity without intermingling with the rest. The common thread of all these oceanic treasures is a Mediterranean broth: an exquisite, blue-tinted soup flavored with kombu seaweed. Brilliant. Genius, even. To successfully create a blue colored dish is no easy task. It’s especially brilliant (no, we wont tire of saying it) because this gastronomic milestone was created naturally, using nothing more than purple basil which, in combination with the oceanic base turns into the sea–and what an exquisite sea it is.



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Tako de bacalao asado bajo la llama, servido con una sopa rustica de pan sopako con matices ácidos y picantes.

Guggenheim Bilbao
Cuisinier: Josean Martinez Alija
Pays: Spain
Localité: Bilbao (Vizcaya)
Adresse: Abandoibarra Etorbidea, 2
(+34) 944239333.

Josean is probably, at this time, the most important culinary minimalist in the world, or at least one of the top two or three. What speaks most for him is his intellectual and work capacity. Of course, we cannot forget that he was a prodigy child who, at the tender age of 23, had already found his way into the books of Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia, taking on a significant post. Amidst the adversity that he has faced, and continues to face on a day-to-day basis running the restaurant side of the Guggenheim business, he has demonstrated a remarkable capacity for confronting distress and overcoming tribulation, a trait without which no one makes it to number one. Serving cocktails, tapas and sandwiches, proposing daily tasting menus… working with simplicity he has managed to salvage his gastronomic offer, and he has accomplished this in a more solid, dedicated fashion, to the point where he has converted his practice into an exponent of materialized art. Few global cuisines today exhibit so much talent and consummation as that of this quiet, mature and superb young man.
An example is this essential cod dish, capable of marking a distinction, once again, on a substantial level: the selection of product, unsurpassable; the preparation and doneness, juicy, iridescent and seared, and the sauce, exquisitely rustic. No more, no less.



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Red onion gnocchi with spicy nuances over a base of baby squid and sautéed garlic shoots

Guggenheim Bilbao
Cuisinier: Josean Martinez Alija
Pays: Spain
Localité: 48001 Bilbao (Vizcaya)
Adresse: Abandoibarra Etorbidea, 2 .
(+34) 944239333

Josean Martínez Alija possesses a creative capacity of universal acclaim. Over time he has managed to dictate a personal style all his own, defined by essence and immaculate flavors. He is one of the few chefs alive that can be identified by merely seeing his dishes, the way he constructs them, his use of minimalism and colors… always expressing extraordinary beauty. He has a privileged mind that allows him to conceive brilliant formulas that combine imagination and perfection. His work in 2007 deserves two Dish of the Year awards, not to mention other inspired and virtuous creations. If the grilled petits pois with egg yolk, onion and vanilla excite the senses through their artistic sublimation of the raw product, the red onion and cayenne gnocchi with baby squid broth and mini zucchini reach the zenith of intangible fantasy. Without the use of meat they produce an incredible sense of purity and substance. Gelatinous gnocchi enclose clean flavors, first of onion, then the flavor of the baby squid broth and, lastly, the tempered spice of the Cayenne pepper in the aftertaste. Elements swim in the concentrated, liquid broth that expresses the quintessence of the cephalopod and a few mini zucchini decorate the simple, reflective composition, of unsurpassable exquisiteness.



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The other moon of Valencia

El Poblet
Cuisinier: Quique Dacosta
Pays: Spain
Localité: 03700 Dénia (Alicante)
Adresse: Las Marinas, km. 3.
00 34 965784179

Quique Dacosta is one of the chefs with the finest taste, not only of the palate, but of the scene, that exist in the gastronomic universe. Lover of nature, architecture, painting… he has shaped his style most recently taking inspiration from landscapes. A product of all those passions is this architectural, landscape work–a symbiosis of two inspirations. First, in 2006, he created a dish entitled “La Opera de Calatrava”, which was born from the admiration he feels for the majestic work by Calatrava on the “Ciudad de las Ciencias y las Artes” building in Valencia, Spain. As an evolution of that first creation, he added a new vision, this time of a summer night… as if he had been under the influence of the “luna de Valencia” (the moon of Valencia), a new artistic expression surfaced: “The Other Moon of Valencia”, in black and white, like life itself. And with the elegance of those colors and the originality that characterizes his work, he captures this luminous, edible landmark. A stunning composition of the landscape, using nature itself as the protagonist: the squid and its ink. Later came the fantasy, technique, refined taste… in short, the art to strengthen the innate delicacy of the dish. Make that which is good, beautiful, and it will be all that more appetizing, or so the saying goes. Here is his “lunar” vision that exalts the squid to the heavens above… or the culinary fantasy that allows us to dip our spoon into the moon, the full moon, and taste it for ourselves.



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False risotto of vegetables and beet yolk

Akelarre
Cuisinier: Pedro Subijana
Pays: Spain
Localité: 20008 San Sebastián (Gipúzcoa)
Adresse: B. Igueldo. Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56.
(+34)943311209.

2007 was, without a doubt, a year of glory for Pedro Subijana, one in which he created a vast number of important dishes -transcendental even- that will stand the test of time, distinguished by their elegance, harmony… and by his refinement and wisdom. There are those dishes which are more essential, like the gelatinous baby squid and onion rings over a beautiful, delicate cuajada of Parmigiano-reggiano with lyophilized ink sauce from the squid–a reinvention of an illustrious recipe in accordance with our times. Or dishes that are more complex, such as the bean salad with a succulent cut of grilled boar, red pepper crumbs and a fragile, liquid sphere of egg–a stunning composition deserving of the Academy Award for best vegetable dish. In either extreme, or somewhere in between, we find other compositions that could easily deserve the Dish of the Year, like the integral red mullet with fusili and different sauces, but if we had to choose one on pure brilliance it would have to be the false risotto of vegetables with beet yolk. It has been presented throughout this year with various products. For example, brunoise of beans, carrot, cauliflower, chard and asparagus, cooked al dente, each one thickened with their own liquefied form and with a delightful adornment of an egg yolk, seasoned in the Carlo Cracco style and covered with a colorful beet jelly. To leave no doubts, this is the most daring vision of a vegetable dish seen in recent times, captured with utter beauty and a heavy dose of modesty. Nonetheless, we remain almost convinced that because of the simplicity of the components, it won’t enjoy a very long life. That’s just the way things are.



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Char-grilled small shrimp over dried bread vinaigrette and under rose vinaigrette

Casa Gerardo
Cuisinier: Pedro y Marcos Morán
Pays: Spain
Localité: 33438 Prendes (Asturias)
Adresse: Ctra. AF 19, Km.9.
(+34) 985887797

Marcos Morán has hit a creative vein. He began to define a style distant from fashionable techniques in which he moves his vision towards the future, proposing personal and imaginative formulas that pay homage to exceptional products, offering immaculate dishes where the ingredients preserve their sapid and textural purity. Among many examples this year we highlight this dish, which perhaps captures the finest artistic treatment of small, or rock shrimp (quisquillas in Spain) that we have ever come across, a shellfish that up until now has not attracted the attention of the most famous chefs. Marcos dares… and manages a death defying feat from which he comes out victorious. The first challenge appears as he gently impregnates the small shrimp with the aromas from the embers, their tails naked over the flames while the heads, intact, enclose and protect their exquisite essences. The first of them come out almost raw and hot while the second round are more rustic thanks to the effect of remaining over the flames for a longer period of time. The intelligent process is magnified with two more twists: one of which is hard to say whether it is a sauce or an adornment: powdered paprika de la Vera, eggplant skin and bread placed under the main ingredient. The other, equally if not more spectacular, is planned as a garnish–one that enjoys independence from the small shrimp, before and after: a “picadillo” of roses, pistachios and spring onions. Needless to say it is bursting with color, in every aspect, bringing light and a vivacious chromatic feel to the delicacy, emphasizing its exquisiteness.



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Red mullet with edible crystallized scales, cucumber consommé, tomato emulsion with cider liquor and raw cauliflower

Martín Berasategui
Cuisinier: Martín Berasategui
Pays: Spain
Localité: 20160 Lasarte-Oria (Guipúzcoa)
Adresse: Loidi, 4
(+34) 943366471

The infallible Martín Berasategui has created a vast array of important work in 2007, all of which corresponds perfectly with his unmistakable style of cuisine, as per usual. We all know that such a studious and untiring chef makes a thousand attempts in his basic preparations before opening new culinary pathways. He takes inspiration from certain criteria, techniques, articulations, sauces… and from there he designs fascinating variants that are always, and we mean always, superb. He has an immaculate, profound approach in conceiving his formulas-remarkably complex dishes that confirm his methods and always manage to surprise, time and time again, with their astonishing level of perfectionism.
In keeping with this philosophy and character, he has given us the red mullet with edible scales. The filet is served at an angle with the skin below, the previously massaged tiny scales in an upside-down colander, under which a pot is placed to recover the oil. Through a continuous application procedure of virgin olive oil at 200ºC to the white meat of the red mullet, the layers of scales, underneath, are made to stand upright. With this process the dish gains in texture, flavor, color and idiosyncrasy. And from there we are left with nothing to do but sing the praises of the maestro: the fish is placed over a bed of bonito tartare and magnified in different spaces with a lightly jellied cucumber consommé, “oceanized” with mussel broth, a tomato and cider liquor emulsion and a salad of cauliflower blended with vinaigrette and herbs.



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The Lively Forest

El Poblet
Cuisinier: Quique Dacosta
Pays: Spain
Localité: 03700 Dénia (Alicante)
Adresse: Las Marinas, km. 3.
00 34 965784179

It is likely, if not absolutely certain, that this is the undisputed Dish of Year the world over; at the very least it is in our world, since we have tried nothing so worthy of the title or so impressive. However, such an awe-inspiring creation should not surprise anyone–after all, Quique Dacosta, with a 9.5 out of 10, finds himself at the summit of international gastronomy. We could go on: his cuisine is currently one of two or three with the most talent and art found anywhere. In this particular case he manages to join genius and virtuosity by capturing a stunning landscape, very much in keeping with the pattern he has had in recent times. This is a landscape in which nature explodes, not just chromatically, but with regard to aromas and flavors as well. The guest is lost amidst multiple sensations that evoke a walk through the forest; sunrise in a spring forest exuberant with wild fragrances and mineral motifs. The wild mushrooms dominate the dish, along with the Alba white truffle or the black truffle–it is a living image, variable, seasonal–as well as the herbs, thyme and rosemary, the wet forest floor…The woods in the nose, on the palate, in front of our eyes… the countryside itself spreads out before you, reaching its maximum gastronomic semblance in an ensemble of outstanding originality and design. It is a story; a fantasy made into reality.

Quique Dacosta - El Poblet
“The lively forest” (Natural landscapes 2007)

Suggestion is a tool and a way of interpreting cuisine. “The lively forest” represents the aromas, textures and products that we can find on a walk through one of our forests. Enter in.

This dish falls in the category of natural landscapes, a theme from which inspiration and expression found. From this line of work, in 2007, “The lively forest” was born as an icon of this movement in our cuisine. But the first landscape we created at El Poblet was “The Lichen”, in 2000.
It was the first landscape created without having contextualized the idea as such. My friend Santiago Orts, a biologist and someone with whom I continue to work, proposed the original plan for the dish. Working on a project concerning vegetables in their embryonic state (that gave birth in 2003), he proposed me to do a dish in homage to the first earthly vegetable: lichen. But it wasn’t until 2003 when, after much reflection and working along similar lines that we contextualized as a concept “landscapes as a path of inspiration and expression”.

What’s more, “The sands” are a further step made in the realm of edible paper. As it was, back then we used papers to strengthen the flavor of a dish or as a crispy seasoning, whereas in this case we have a semi-solid sauce.



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Senia rice with smoked eel and cherries

El Poblet
Cuisinier: Quique Dacosta
Pays: Spain
Localité: 03700 Dénia (Alicante)
Adresse: Las Marinas, km. 3.
(+34) 965784179

Quique Dacosta has always worked with rice dishes. His devotion to this ingredient and the cuisine of the Alicante region in general is such that he wrote an important book on the subject, “Arroces Contemporáneos”, in which he imparts a world of knowledge regarding this cereal, stemming from an arduous investigative process, beyond strictly culinary themes. Ironically, it was only after he published this lucid work that he produced his finest dish: a daring recipe that doesn’t fit into his normal repertoire, with sophisticated counterpoints to the common thread of the rice, always neutral, always absorbent, breaking with everything that is considered traditional in Spanish cuisine. Boasting powerful sensations that harmoniously spark amidst a main ingredient that still manages to maintain all its natural identity. The recipe seems to be assimilated to some extent from the practices of what certain Italian chefs–Carlo Cracco, Massimiliano Alajmo, Paolo Lopriore, etc. –do with risottos. On top of the sapid and tactile purity of the rice there is an array of unmistakable flavors, of unquestionable character. The powerful confrontation of the smoke, personified by the eel, and the acidity, represented by a few fresh cherries, awakes even the most dormant of gourmet minds. And therein lay the magic: that he accomplishes this without detracting from the subject. If the demonstrative marriage of the eel and cherries weren’t enough, an intense perfume of rosemary appears and, for a touch of tranquility, a few traditional pieces of squid, conceived, of course, by the contemporary mind of one of the most important culinary artists on earth: Quique Dacosta.
Without a shred of doubt, this is the finest rice dish produced by Spanish haute cuisine.



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Country egg with beet, liquid herb salad with “cocido vasco” (basque broth) carpaccio and smoked cheese

Martín Berasategui
Cuisinier: Martín Berasategui
Pays: Spain
Localité: 20160 Lasarte-Oria (Guipúzcoa)
Adresse: Loidi, 4
(+34) 943366471

Martín Berasategui has achieved with this dish two things: one, to stress the importance of the egg in haute cuisine, which has made a comeback in recent years with quite relevant successes; and two, to break with the stereotypical low-temperature recipes, almost always authored by the same chef. What’s more, because egg whites cost practically nothing, especially in gastronomic terms, they have done away with these, since it is not a question of saving money nor stuffing the clients’ bellies. With the intelligence that characterizes him, he maximizes the impact of the yolk – raw, just hot – as it envelops the truly gourmand “cold cut” of pork, impregnated with creaminess in the form of small cheese balls and given vegetal notes with the addition of beet, truffle, sprouts and the liquid salad of aromatic herbs. Very appetizing: succulent yet boasting a certain amount of freshness.



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