Maní

This young couple made up of Helena Rizzo, Brasilian, and Daniel Redondo, from Girona, forged in the Celler de Can Roca where they worked for thirteen years constitutes the second triumphant exponent of modern haute cuisine after the boom of Alex Atala. It appears to be a movement that, if developed over long term, will lead to a qualitative leap forward in gastronomy and a social shift for Brazil.
For now, both in D.O.M. as well as in Maní, the new reality is very much alive. In Helena and Daniel’s case, they seem to have focused perfectly on a style. Influenced by the Spanish culinary phenomenon, they apply contemporary concepts and techniques. They do it with a great deal of personality producing constructions that go beyond the norm, demonstrating their open-mindedness about their work. In general, they use traditional Brazilian ingredients, offering exotic flavors from a western perspective or original dishes in a more indigenous line. Articulations with obvious modern tastes that please everyone: reflective, balanced and polished dishes that show a solid foundation in cuisine. Astonishingly delicate, fresh creations that boast complex flavors and textures along with splendorous colors–qualities that distinguish the house in almost all their dishes. The proposals are always artistic, conveying their proverbial gift of good taste.
The Waldorf salad expresses the wonder of the couple’s style, recreated and magically adorned with a heavy dose of virtuosity with an apple jelly, celery sorbet, caramelized walnuts and a gorgonzola emulsion. The scallop tartare with chestnut milk and cardamom caramel preserves the immaculate nature of the shellfish while impregnating it with exciting nuances. The tapiocas, an assortment of roasted tubers, with tucupí foam (milk fermented with tapioca) and coconut milk confirm the visionary sentiment and culture. The mandioquinha gnocchi (Peruvian parsnip), sharp yet subtle, served with sorrel pesto, toasted pine nuts and parmesan shavings compare with even the finest found in Italy. The Norway lobster tail over fumet made from the same crustacean, cocoa, cilantro and grilled tapioca puree is a demonstration of nobility, precision and refinement. The bacalao a bras is yet another confirmation of how to further develop legendary recipes with extraordinary intelligence and effectiveness. The ox tail with black bean puree, port sauce and nuts shows yet again the infallibility and savoir-faire of the house.
Helena Rizzo and Daniel Redondo, who started this project in 2006, are called to gastronomic glory. In due time.