La Tenda Rossa

Maria Salcuni
Maria Salcuni
Country: Italy
City: 50020 Cerbaia Val di Pesa (Firenze)
Address: Plazza del Monumento 9/14
(+39) 055826132
Closed: Sundays and Mondays midday
Price: 125/160 €
Tasting menu:: 68, 75 y 92 €

  • Dados de hígado de añojo a modo de farsa aromática con salsa de Marsala, puerro
  • Dados de hígado de añojo a modo de farsa aromática con salsa de Marsala, puerro fundente y láminas de trufa blanca de San Miniato
  • Embutido de cerdo Cinta Senese acompañado de flor de col verde con un ligerísimo
  • Embutido de cerdo Cinta Senese acompañado de flor de col verde con un ligerísimo perfume de ajo y daditos de foie de oca

This two-starred Michelin restaurant certainly merits its qualification. It responds perfectly to the characteristics and philosophy of the guide. From its noble family owners, Silvano dedicates himself in body and soul to the business, overseeing this stately, luxurious establishment. The service is stunning, fine wines served by the glass (Gaia 90, for example), a wide variety of breads with diverse textures and aromas are baked fresh on-site, an impressive cheese tray graces the dining room… this is a restaurant with impact.
The kitchen, headed by Maria Salcuni, is exemplary of the Tuscan tradition with its noble distinction. Classic cuisine embellished with succulence but, rather surprisingly, not too heavy. Rounded flavors substantiated by impeccable, sometimes sublime products. The dish of small fried fish (fritto de paranza) boasts remarkably fresh fish, and the same can be said for the red mullet; it was as if they were just hauled in from the sea, still dripping with marine goodness. The baby octopus was quite good as well – in fact all the products here are prepared with the same refined technique resulting in fish with crispy exteriors and juicy, rosy centers. The simplicity of the sea interpreted by simple wisdom. This same simplicity is applied to produce their marvelous crystallized vegetables as well.
The pasta proposals are diverse and always deliciously finished, whether accompanied by seafood or meat. The spaghetti alla chitarra is pure artisanship, preserving the identity of the pasta while being reinforced by the complements – a stimulating fragrance of basil, a seemingly infinite quantity of tiny calamari the size of a fingernail with a miniscule brush of the ink, slices of muggine roe (grey mullet)… in short, a true gastronomic orgy. The onslaught of flavor and elements continues with the tortelli stuffed with summer squash (zucca gialla), with its light smoky flavor, Parmigiano-reggiano, and delicately enriched with Caesar’s mushrooms and white truffle. The saccottini are decadent, enhanced by a few magnificent slices of “cinta senese”, the prized race of Italian pig, accompanied by broccoli and cubes of foie gras with a garlic base.
The meat dishes are academic: beef liver stuffed with aromatic herbs served with a leek-marsala sauce and truffle; the chianino beef filet escalope accompanied by wild mushrooms in various preparations; the lamb carré perfumed with herbs and the famous squab in which the breast is served medium rare and the thighs, prepared with foie gras, are crispy… accompanied by a sweet and sour grape sauce that impregnates the meat with flavors of dark, ripe fruit.
To conclude, this is cuisine that is inextricably connected to the region, the market and tradition… marvelously bourgeois and very gratifying.