Atmosphères

There is a new trend catching on in France. Many young chefs, after training in more or less prestigious establishments, when the time has come for a post of their own, now do not so often settle in standard institutions of haute cuisine but rather choose the path of furthered knowledge. No to wine cellars with hundreds of references, yes to short but intelligently chosen wine lists; no to lobster and caviar, yes to products of high quality but low cost, preferably local or regional ones; no to silver tableware and pompous environments, yes to simple, pleasant service… and so on and so forth.

A praiseworthy choice, especially when it yields results like the ones found here at this charming restaurant 13 kilometers outside of Chambéry. Alain Perrillat-Mercerot, 35 years old from the Savoy region, began his career at the age of 18 in Guy Barbin’s restaurant, Le Capucin Gourmand, in Vougy. In 1994 he moved to Clos des Sens, where he quickly rose to second in command under Laurent Petit. Finally, in 2001 he opened his own restaurant in the hills of Lake Bourget. His cuisine is fresh, serene and spontaneous yet extremely precise, with a foundation of exceptional products and a solid technical knowledge, it is characterized by his special attention to the architecture of the dish. His love for earthly things is beyond all doubt, but not necessarily exclusive: on the menu you will find fresh fish of the lake and Jerusalem artichoke, but also scallops and foie gras.

As an appetizer a few tapas were brought out: caramelized Savoy sausage, fried polenta cubes, cumin wafers, a spoonful of trout roe in its own gelatin and a small glass of onion soup. The first entrée was a combined homage to Laurent Petit – ground sirloin with herring caviar – and Jacques Decoret – a frozen oyster bonbon – reinterpreted to fit Alain’s personal taste which, thanks to the herring caviar, incorporates lightly smoked aromas to the ground beef and transforms the frozen oyster water of the bonbon into something resembling a sorbet. Following, came a wild fish of Lake Leman, perfectly prepared, accompanied by cardoons from the Tremblay cooperative and an emulsion with milk and cardoon stock. From lake to sea: an excellent wild sea bream served with warm mango Macedonia with Argan oil was next in line. We continued with a small but very tender portion of roast lamb, medium-rare, with a highlight of tuber broth comprised of salsifies, knotroot, Jerusalem artichokes and parsnips. We finished with braised, caramelized pork cheeks presented over sautéed hedgehog mushrooms and decorated with a butternut squash puree and salted lemon confit. The first dessert, fresh and light, contained a cube of pineapple and ice-blended tarragon with caramelized choux pastry, while the second, boasting the name 100% Chocolat, sensually played with different forms, textures and aromas of cocoa.

Alain is an honest, sincere chef. And these days, that’s nothing to laugh about.