L’ATELIER D’AKRAME

Akrame Benallal and his wife opened this little functional restaurant in early 2011. Its success was great and immediate, not only because of its good location, at five minutes walk from the Triumphal Arch, but principally because of the fabulous value for money. The offer is really flexible, depending on your appetite and on your wallet: 2 dishes for €25, 3 dishes for €35, 4 dishes for €45 and 6 dishes for €65, including appetizers and dessert. Wines are also affordable. Even the service is exceptionally affable. The nub of the matter is the kind of business Akrame has opted for: possibilistic cuisine for all, for all tastes and pockets. The chef is an intelligent man who is able to interpret the expectations and the demand of society. His cuisine distinguishes itself in a discreet way. It turns to be significant, innovative and effective but without showing off complexity. The constructions are made of few but interesting elements that are beautifully put together. The best skirt steak we had ever eaten, served rosy, juicy and very tasty, like a greasy piece of steak, exclusively accompanied with a caramelized reduction of old-style mustard and meat stock. We were so happy that we asked for more –although this was the sixth dish! In the same line, the thickly-cut wagyu steak, rare, beautifully seasoned, was served with a fabulous broccoli purée and tiny posies, which acted as sauce and garnish. The ability of the chef to create in a simple and daring way was expressed again through the fresh, iridescent and juicy cod filets, enhanced on the top with parsley and on the bottom with an al dente potato “risotto” –instead of rice–, finished with some crisps made of potato purée; pertinent and original tastes. The chef’s style and personality shined again through the blue lobster cooked with the juice obtained with its shell and innards and proposed with slightly baked carrots, carrot purée, a sweet and sour hint and oyster leaf. The clam risotto with baby squid ink, tomato and lemon butter air impresses the guest because of its intensity and its spectacular elegance. The thick grilled foie gras escalope, totally covered with another thick slice of cooked beet, served with beet purée and seasoned with burnt brown sugar and crunchy bread crumbs, is synonymous with nobility and substance. Regarding desserts –which rime with mildness, pleasure and conviction–, Akrame confirms his extraordinary savoir-faire and his very developed sense of taste: pear with red wine, iced red wine (same variety), green cheese sorbet and black live tile. This high level cuisine is irreversibly promising, because if Akrame has been able to reach this stage at the age of 30, imagine what he is up to!