The grill is not absent from the current boom in haute cuisine. In a clearly nonconformist gastronomic age, at the start of the third millennium in which innovation and perfectionism mark the difference between success and failure, the most archaic and primal of preparations—grilling over a flame—plays a part in the great beginnings of this golden age that we are enjoying, and of which we would never have dreamed.

Like an Adrià or a Berasategui, the names of Pedro Arregui and Victor Arguinzoniz are rising. They have been incorporating new delicacies to the grill. In the case of Elkano, in Getaria (Guipúzcoa), which is attaining a legendary career of more than 40 years, the turbot stands out for its virtuosity, followed by the collar of hake, the clams and, recently, the hake cheeks and baby squid.

Its evolution has brought with it the adaptation of tools that make possible the preparation of these ingredients over coals—“newly fashioned grilling pans”. In the case of cephalopods, this consists of two small, flat, parallel grills separated from one another by a centimeter and attached to the handle from the opposite side. The device is placed a short distance from the coals, about ten centimeters, and over high heat—since these are delicacies of limited volume, they need a blast of heat and exterior aromatization, with just the slightest penetration of heat on the interior of the meat.

The cheeks are first done on the white side, that of the skin, on which they remain for 45 seconds; they are turned over and grilled on the dark side, that of the tongue, for a minute and a half. In all, they are there for just barely two and a half revolutions of the second hand, though they can remain a few instants more or less depending on their size and the intensity of the flame. The pieces used are always medium to large sized, since their mass is more apt for this treatment. They are seasoned with the blended vinaigrette that flavors the great fishes that have made this restaurant universally famous, such as turbot and sole.

Three Thierry Marx dishes deserve a place in this category of great culinary creations. The pressed smoked eel “land and estuary” with acidulated apple and cereal toast, inspired by the well-known terrine of foie gras made famous by Martín Berasategui; the mi-cuit tomato with caviar, oysters and gelatinized oyster cream, reminding us of the “millefeuilles” that Joel Robuchon made with the same vegetable, even if the rest of the ingredients have nothing to do with it—among other reasons, because those tomatoes were alternated with spider crab; and this one that looks like a tribute to Ferrán Adrià. All of this clears up a lot about this chef, who looks for ideas in the world’s greatest celebrities.

This is a risotto in which the force of nature is exalted—it is absolutely vegetal, super-refreshing, scandalously crispy, in which soybean sprouts, all but raw, take the place of rice. A mountain of sprouts without the tail enveloped in a creamy sauce perfect for this type of preparation, along with the allure of two delicacies that wonderfully accompany the sprouts, bringing exquisite contrasts: oysters and truffles.

The ingeniousness and erudition of Andoni Luis Aduriz, mystical culinary ecologist, are patent in his invaluable book, Clorofilia, which reflects his great work rooted in vegetables and inspired by the philosophy of Michel Bras, an individual for whom he feels a burning professional passion. In this field, outstanding recipes abound—we place the Mugaritz chef among the best in the world, and not in vain—but this does prevent us from highlighting two of them: “Raw and roasted vegetables, sprouts and leaves, wild and farmed, seasoned with hazelnut butter and a generous Emmental cheese dressing”, a clairvoyant and consummate interpretation of the Gargouillou, and this original dish made with Basque peas, which we designate Dish of the Year for numerous and various reasons.

We are fascinated by its minimalist concept: four elements arranged with great simplicity, offering three delicious and sharp flavors, two extremely subtle fragrances, two opposite and complementary textures, two temperatures and two colors within a brilliant reflection. Flavor of raw peas, of the country, green and exquisite, unique, with two harmonious counterpoints provided by means of an eyedropper: one a magically spiced touch, the other exultantly floral. The legume explodes while the gelatin fades and blurs. The base is cold, the veil warm. Absolutely coloristic while offering just two tones: emerald and violet. And to give this beauty a striking expression, it is served in a dish designed for the occasion.

Nature in its most natural and artistic form.

This is probably the best recipe today for enjoying such a popular dish, one of the most deeply-rooted in traditional Spanish cuisine, implanted in all environments, omnipresent in the home and in popular restaurants. This constitutes a recreation. While retaining the ingredients and keeping with historical memory, an evolution toward haute cuisine is achieved. The golden veil of batter is retained. Juiciness is accentuated by the sheer volume of the filet and by the introduction of a technique that is currently in the limelight: low-temperature cooking. The textural character of the fish, one of its greatest gastronomic qualities, is enhanced. The ancestral accompaniment of peppers is retained, replacing the morrones or piquillos with a superior variety: cristal, more delicate in flavor and fine in texture, with distinct color. And a sauce is added, in the form of a translucent rice and chicken soup, very balanced, where the grain enhances just as wonderfully as does the essence of the fowl.