Daniel Rosé has set up a possibilistic restaurant together with a team of young cooks, a kind of bistro that proposes feasible haute cuisine at very attractive prices, hence its great success. The place is always full. Why? Taste the top quality pigeon, for example, pink, juicy and greasy, immaculate, served with cherries, hazelnut cream and a perfect demi-glace sauce, refined and lightened, lain over the dish. Who wouldn’t like this? Excellent raw materials and impeccable doneness together with feasible and delicious seasonings. This is the trend of the house you can flavour here and there, like through the raviolis stuffed with pigeon heart and liver, swimming into pigeon consommé, enhanced with beef and seasoned with herbs and spices that make the whole rime with perfect orthodoxy. The oysters, served in two versions –raw and coated with breadcrumbs–, garnished with some vinaigrette enhanced with shallot and beef and accompanied with al dente green asparagus, are another example of how to update and honour tradition in line with the historical references. This philosophy of focused and efficient cuisine, very satisfactory, is reflected in both appetizers and desserts: Basque blood sausage slices with arugula, pertinently succulent and gelatinous; slightly marinated raw trout; cucumber salad with its jelly, dill and Saracen wheat; impeccable honey ice-cream; strawberries with coriander; and chocolate sweet. Let’s repeat it: renewed traditional cuisine, serious, developed and made with precision and enthusiasm. Everything changes but the essence.
