In the restaurant of my dear and admired friend Aimo, where his daughter Stefania is starting to take the reins, supported by the preparations of Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini, we find a greater influence of haute cuisine in recent constructions, a superior level of articulations, with integral structures in many cases, as well as the pondered introduction of modern flavors within the idiosyncrasy of purity and tradition that has always distinguished the house.

A sublime testimony to this growing tendency is the small spring salad with peeled broad beans – cooked in an instant – Noto roman almonds and a generous julienne of raw squid, signed by a clairvoyant, beautiful lemon marmalade that adds a sweet and sour counterpoint. Immaculate in flavor and texture – nature and nothing more – fresh vegetables, a healthy lightness to the dish, an exuberance of nuances from the chosen components, a conjunction of diversity and colors… a ravishingly contemporary and virtuosic creation.

In this recipe, Nicola Portinari expresses sublime creaminess and the maximum in Italian culinary style. The rice is al dente, very al dente, preserving its tactile and flavorful identity – immaculate – submerged in cream, the essence of milk, with ricotta and burrata cheese. This southern simplicity, mature, wise and erudite, embodies the quintessential gastronomy of country, seasoned with characteristic audacious and daring. Magnificent specks of tomato, olives, capers – dried – oregano and oil that brings light and color to a form that clearly reminds one of pizza.

UAn excess, yes, but then perhaps brilliance is generally a bit excessive. Brilliance can be attained either by a boasting of the imagination, creating unprecedented combinations, or through the perfection of classic flavors. In this case we are dealing with an excess of knowledge, technique and refined succulence. It is difficult to say whether this is a fondue or an aligot, perhaps it falls somewhere between the two, in any case we find ourselves before an unmistakable cheese dish, truly substantial, that produces immense, even brazen pleasure. A recipe of cheese and rice, since the grain here demonstrates its full character as well, flavorful and tactile, representing 50% of the gastronomic work. The mushrooms imply the intellectual character of the mountainous region. In short, a formula that reflects the countless, marvelous qualities and identity of Philippe Leveillé.

Chefs should always keep in mind that the artistic worth of a dish should be complementary to its virtuosity and to the pleasure that it produces. The Cerea brothers do just that with this formula, a dish that confirms their style of progressive classicism. The traditional raviolone pasta is translucent, with a delicate consistency and flavor. It is filled with a savory, historical combination: ricotta enriched by a high percentage of pureed spinach. They finish the work by adding an egg yolk, liquid and hot, that brings a surprising visual aspect to the dish, converting the ensemble into a flowing golden sauce after it bursts. The yolk accentuates the creaminess of the dish, even creating a charming excess of creaminess, as well as delicacy thanks to the quality of the product and the perfect execution that it receives.