Zaldiaran

Without changing their philosophy or practices in any way (elements that have been the reason for much of their success), this restaurant has undergone the most substantial menu change in its history. So radical has it been that only half a dozen dishes from past years have survived. What could possibly have happened? Well, we must assume that its mentors were not satisfied - that they felt they must answer to the call; to give more of themselves… to comply with the gastronomic commitment. It does remain clear, however, that the new additions do not substantially affect the thoughts and processes of the establishment, which continue to be confirmed with each visit. The body and soul of the restaurant: modern haute cuisine with palatal references that boast refined flavors, laudable technique and a merit-worthy staging.
The almond soup with lobster is exquisite, apparently inspired by ajoblanco. It strengthens the elegance and delicacy of the traditional version from Malaga, giving the crustacean the starring role and the cream the supporting; nonetheless, both elements are protagonists in some way. The essence of the forest in springtime perhaps has its origins in the celebrated dish by Quique Dacosta, which has been recreated here in a “possibilist” manner: a wild mushroom paste sits atop an egg yolk, a few pieces of ham and assorted mushrooms, with slices of truffle, horn of plenty mushrooms and perretxikos (St. George’s mushrooms) standing out. Another unique vision of a contemporary, historic construction, in this case from Martín Berasategui: the vegetable marrow salad with tomato jelly and lobster. The elements are simplified, going from the flat arrangement to a stacking of the ingredients, introducing a few personal touches along the way like the fennel tagliatelle, capturing the original formula with a his own mark, confirming the nobility of the product. The mille-feuille of potato, foie gras, apple, truffle and vinaigrette has been picking up friends along the way for a decade now: sophisticated ornamentation with basic impressions. The broad beans with peas, cod filet and tripe and leek jelly is a doctoral form of enjoying the springtime flare of such a representative salted fish, refreshing its culinary meaning. Notable pragmatism: fresh grilled vegetable over pea toffee with artichokes, green asparagus, green beans… immaculate flavors with lively colors and textures. Erudition and virtuosity are found in the scientific truffle scramble, expressing an incredible creaminess and aromatic quality. The wintry Tolosa bean soup with cabbage is stunning. The sumptuous Norway lobster tail with succulent soupy rice swimming in a porcini broth is an idyllic passage through the gastronomic landscapes of Spain. The traditional pork skins and tripe with a sauce of pimientos choriceros (sun dried red peppers) urges one to indulge in the flavor and gelatinous nature of the components; to die for. The roast squab, tender, rosy, bursting with flavor… served on a bed of buckwheat with Perigord sauce constitutes another doctoral development of a timeless recipe. And the desserts are fabulous, especially the liquid chocolate soufflé with rosemary ice cream and the caramel and gold with lemon sabayon and “cubalibre” (rum and coke) ice cream.