Taverna del Capitano

Raw materials are a creed in this establishment—it has agreements with the local fisherman, from whom it acquires the best the sea has to offer in these parts. One could argue about the generosity of nature, but not the size and freshness of fish and shellfish that inspire us to praise the knowledge of the Caputo family. From this premise, even knowing that there are favored dishes of its clientele over time, it is advisable to ask what has been caught that day. Multiple factors should play into the choice of the ideal meal here, which is always instructive and bursting with Mediterranean elements.
The menu is divided evenly into two sections: “my cuisine” and “classics”. The first section is not necessarily identifiable with modern concepts and very elaborate recipes. A splendid Norway lobster wrapped in fine fried shoestring potatoes over a copious, sensational papacelle red pepper sauce would have been an innovative recipe fifteen or twenty years ago, but not today. The philosophy expressed in “my cuisine” is almost always popularly inspired and entirely identifiable with the countryside. It attains greatness in such simple and idiosyncratic examples as the black and white tagliolini, hand-made on site in two colors and served with squid and spicy pumpkin sauce. The pasta, to which the magnificent Alfonso Caputo applies his seemingly infinite interpretations, is always well finished – accompanied by diverse seafood such as the Gragnano linguine with octopus liver and cuttlefish tentacles. There is even a certain amount of daring invloved: the scorpion fish (scorfano) pasta with totani and potato is very interesting. The calamari soup with beans, Neapolitan escarole and garlic breadcrumbs is bursting with rustic delight. What flavor! Equally satisfying were the potato gnocchi with smoked scamorza cheese and artichokes… full of personality.
The risotto triumphs for the quality of the rice, Carnaroli; for the cooking technique that makes it uniformly al dente; and for amusing and delicious complements: red prawns, Neapolitan escarole, pine nuts and raisins. If the shellfish are tempting—do not miss the totano or the carnumme, also known as sea lemon, which has sour, bitter and iodized flavors—the fish are mouthwatering. The red and white tuna, red mullet, dentex or dentice, amberjack or ricciola, swordfish, etc. have appeal in their innate complexity, showing respect for time-honored flavors revised with intelligence, moderation and talent. The highest honors go to the fried crispy seafood dish with wild fennel and mint aromas, and the enormous Galli spiny lobster, served raw and hot, perfumed with Mediterranean herbs.
This is a traditional and renewed seafood cuisine that relies on ingredients, looks to its origins, is evolving and, above all, is extremely satisfying. In short, cuisine with a great amount of personal style.