Perbellini

Art runs through Giancarlo Perbellini’s veins; not in the literal sense of the term, but rather that the Perbellini family boasts a long tradition in the field of artful patisserie in Verona, with traditional local specialties such as pandoro and the colombe pasquali.

There are those who say this family imprint is seen in many of his dishes, which, within their complexity, can oftentimes be characterized by a certain “sweet” nuance. It might be true, perhaps, but only in part.

However, his originality doesn’t stop there. As you enter his establishment (a truly industrial space), instead of what you might expect to be the dining area of an office you find a noble, stellar restaurant.

His wife Paola’s hospitality alone could justify loyal patronage, though we must say that the professional service of all the staff was very dignified.

When it came time to order we were presented with three main lines of approach, apart from the regular menu.
The “Assaggi” proposal is the greatest synthesis of this restaurant’s classics along with its most recent creations.

The goat mille-feuille with eggplant and beef tartar over tomato juices offers an interesting play of acidity and temperatures, but it is only an introduction to the sesame wafer with sea bass tartar and goat cheese with chives. The small spoon lightly bathed in licorice provides a long, sweet emotion that justifies its longevity on the menu.
Another delightfully original touch came with the pasta and Adriatic beans, a modern, resolved interpretation of a traditional, regional dish: a convincing creation that satiates the palate, with added impact – gentle but decisive – incorporated by the tomato confit.

The Bassa Veronese is an agriculturally rich land that is home to various crops, rice being one of them. The grain appears here in a few different dishes: with a pleasant, buttery texture served with parsley and assorted fish; or peculiar and flavorful wrapped in ravioli with scallops and basil oil.

The rabbit was extraordinary, served with Parmesan cheese over a fennel and orange crème brulée: another dish that defies the myth about Perbellini being a Pastry Chef. He is wonderful with sweet creations, but he also knows how to prepare the savory elements.

For main dishes, both the fish and meat selections are viable options.
A classic preparation is the Norway lobster in different forms or the red mullet filet with a surprising combination of caramelized endives, radicchio, scallops, dried fruit, etc.
In the chapter on meats we discovered interesting variations with beef (tripe and sweetbreads) and a rather free interpretation of squab paired with banana, peppers, tarragon and anchovy oil. Though it has many followers, this dish is not among our favorites. It’s a Thai dish from the Far East, but this is the Northeast… in Italy!
But after all, it really comes down to personal meaning.

With Perbellini, the desserts are a separate act altogether; the scene is opened by an enormous cart containing dozens of proposals
The “Millefoglie Strachin” is a must, with a double entendre in its title, Stracchino being a soft cheese though here it is traditionally made with whipped cream.

Perbellini’s cuisine is based on solid ideas and absolute professionalism between the kitchen and dining room – a safe destination for curious palates.
Situated near Verona and Lago di Garda, it enjoys an international clientele who come looking for dishes with a personal touch in which the regional connection is expressed more as a citation of the past than as a testimony of its longevity; nonetheless, it is a cuisine bursting with inventive, fun proposals that awaken one’s curiosity.