Le Cirque

Robert Kranenborg is one of the professionals with greatest culinary know-how in Holland. Every dish shows infinite knowledge, theory and practice that the diner cannot but value, even admire. They are erudite constructions that stand out for their balance. They represent a revitalization of historic flavors and concepts that are refined, lightened, beautified… brought up to date. For example, American sauces predominate, but each seafood base has an identity, its own seasonings and perfumes that distinguish it—in some cases with an exotic touch while maintaining the essence of traditional flavor. Very elaborate, complex creations with a focus on sauces, purees, complements, adornments, etc., that are always very gratifying. And they are done with a meticulousness, an infallibility that leave the gourmet perplexed while assuring that in the tasting menu, with a dozen dishes, there is not even the minutest slipup. Bravo.
Elegance and harmony from start to finish. As in the original and mild Dutch version of sushi, with two pieces of raw herring filet—–maatjesharing—over two rectangular rice bases lightly impregnated with a mustard sauce. The fish, for its fat and succulence, its natural quality, juiciness and meatiness—you have to see it to believe it—is one of the most delicious you can find at a Benelux table. Both versions of ox crab preserve the intrinsic value of the shellfish and give it flavor through two thorough and efficient preparations. The first with a cream of eggs and Parmesan, and tomato syrup, and the other with a velouté and a cold potato mousseline. The fish always arrive impeccably cooked, giving added value to their extraordinary quality. The first example is the sole, whose filets arrive topped with a layer of corn and a delightful, stimulating lemongrass-turmeric sauce, as well as memorable apricot-perfumed tender baby leeks. With a similar range of elements and the profundity of each of this chef’s recipes is the monkfish with herbes de Provence, served with diced peppers, tomatoes and fennel, all swimming in a rice broth. The turbot, the red mullet and the “Baambrugge” lacquered suckling pig back, with a parmentier impregnated with lemon and ginger fragrances and mizuna with caramelized honeyed pork rinds, are three other brilliant offerings that place this table among the elite in the country.
The decor and the service have the mark of a luxury restaurant.