La Pergola

A temple of abundance and opulence. To the point where the dining room in season is filled with the most sublime of aromas, that of truffles, served continuously in huge portions in a multitude of dishes—including, just to erase any lingering doubt of their omnipresence, with ice cream. It is all rather solemn, as befits a five-star restaurant in the Roma Cavalieri Hilton, accommodating an affluent and high-class international clientele accompanied by the most distinguished capital city society. In this lavish environment, there is a god: the client, pampered to the point of making the visit unforgettable. First the panorama, aerial, or better said celestial, overlooking the city; in the summertime the terrace further accentuates the postcard feel. Second, the service, exceptionally elegant, discreet and efficient. And, of course, the food, in the hands of Heinz Beck, someone whose mind is very well ordered, even privileged—he is extremely cultured, with remarkable technique, unyielding meticulousness, an infinite capacity for work; and, what’s more, he has the great gift of being an infallible psychologist. He knows precisely and marvelously what pleases such a chic clientele, and he provides it boldly and generously.

Tempered haute cuisine offering composed flavors: all of the recipes have grace and even impress, but all within the established canon. Refinement, reflection and know-how take precedence over imagination; the goal is to convince rather than amaze. Heinz fully succeeds when he mixes German with Italian, cerebral with passionate, in a wonderful symbiosis. Stellar examples can be found in numerous offerings of pasta and rice. Like the delicate and creamy tagliolini, of the highest quality and impeccably made, thoughtfully combined with salsifies, spring onion and white truffles. The tomato risotto is enticing, in which the grain is imbibed with the translucent tomato juice for a passionate fatty-sour contrast and surrounded by the refreshing bitterness of liquefied arugula blended with olive oil and topped with a copious tuna tartar. The meats are also delicious and beautifully prepared; the squab and foie gras crepinette is especially brilliant, even dazzling, served with mustard sauce, turnip-root celery puree, baby vegetables: a sybaritic buttery delight. And fully satisfying starters, like the lobster medallions with tomato, eggplant puree, crisp potatoes and collard greens—a succulent way to view salad.

The desserts could be improved—they are too classical, dense and sweet.

An outstanding rating requires a bit more sparkle, boldness, and an avant-garde style… a more artistic focus.