La Calma

La Calma was inaugurated in February of 2005 by two associates, Alberto Hernández, the chef, and Alfredo Matayano, who looks after the business side of the establishment. In a very short period of time they have succeeded in defining the project: a restaurant with a predominantly minimalist aesthetic and remarkably good taste offering an eminently contemporary cuisine. The chef, who trained at the famous Atrio restaurant (Cáceres), demonstrates an evolved style in his work here, furthered by an awe-inspiring consistency in his creations. It is not an easy task to make these types of proposals accessible to such a varied clientele – obstacles exist, fundamentally sociological ones – but this makes their effort all the more attractive. Regardless of the adverse terrain they may come up against, the results of the business have been positive because, simply, this is quality, effective cuisine. Knowledge, technique, effort, refinement and aesthetics are demonstrated in the proposals… and if they can survive the suspicious world of Castilian gastronomy then the future promises to be dazzling for them.
Daring, complex dishes abound, like the delicate gazpacho served over a slice of bread with sour cream, basil gelatin, vegetable julienne, chives and semi-raw scarlet shrimp. The portly Norway lobster, impeccably grilled, immaculate and juicy, served over magnificent pancetta with ajada (similar to aioli) is an ode to flavor, meatiness of the shellfish and basic gastronomic values. The cod filet, giant, rare, iridescent and incredibly juicy, served swimming in a smoked consommé is another greatly satisfying formula. The medallion of foie gras over grilled mango with melon air and tea sauce is rich with balanced exoticism and restrained sophistication, proving once again that the result of the dish is the only truth that counts – indisputable. The pig feet are prepared with delicious textural counterpoints – crispy and gelatinous – served over caramelized cherry chutney with chickpea puree and seasonal mushrooms, in this case Caesar’s mushrooms.
If the cuisine and the results merit such praise, especially considering the short amount of time since the restaurant opened its doors, the wine cellar and other details of the establishment also testify to the excitement, ideology, intellectual serenity and ambition of this project – to create a culinary adventure that is markedly different without supposing impossible goals for itself.