Henrique Leis
henriqueleis@iol.pt
- Carré de cordero con salsa de especias
- Bombones de caracoles de Borgoña con setas
Henrique Leis is an old, perennial rocker. A born chef who grew up in Rio de Janeiro, where he met Paul Bocuse, at the time a young kitchen hand at the Hotel Le Meridien, who he convinced of his vocation, capacity for work and talent. He traveled with the top chef to Collonges au Mont d’Or, where he worked for a long time while furthering his training. These credentials and contacts allowed him to have subsequent stints in other temples, such as La Maison Troisgros and Georges Blanc, establishments that made him a master with distinction. He ended up in the Algarve, at a small restaurant that he manages in person, where he produces solid, modernized French cuisine with appreciable academic knowledge and redesign. He is a truly driven professional who lives through his work and goes about it with passion. Consequently, in this restaurant they know what deserves to be cooked and how to cook it.
A classic with a touch of modernity: egg scrambled in its shell with Iranian caviar and smoked eel foam, wonderful for its creaminess and distinct flavors, combined in perfect harmony. In a similar style, that of reconstructing legendary recipes, he offers Burgundy escargot bonbons with pata negra ham and herb butter, served over mushroom caps that, as the title suggests, act as a support for the cited ingredients—each of which is brilliantly positioned. The extremely juicy supreme of scallop with a pig’s foot crocant and a foamy oyster cream, along with herbs and nasturtium, shows knowledge, great know-how and meticulousness—unquestionable virtues. The lamb chops embody nobility, extraordinary quality and great technique: they are red and evenly heated to preserve their essence. The are served with various universally-accepted delicacies: a spiced jus, an assortment of purées and a mint ravioli. The desserts are in a similar vein, the standouts being melted cheese with various marmalades and an orange salad with lime cream and raspberries.
The timeless Burgundy-style fish and shellfish soup, the John Dory tartare with river crabs and satay sauce, the plate of foie gras, truffle and Norway lobster ravioli with light asparagus cream and sautéed prawns, and the supreme of butterfish filled with foie gras are other clear examples of the best French savoir-faire.