Fortaleza do Guincho

A monumental 17th century fortress that has been converted into a supremely luxurious Relais&Châteaux sitting atop the Atlantic ocean with the untouched beaches of beautiful Guincho stretching out on both sides. Such an impressive hotel (*****) naturally has a corresponding restaurant, replete with a unique, hand-made Persian rug that covers the entire dining room, ebony chairs upholstered with Macao fabrics, sumptuous Limoges cutlery in cobalt and gold… this is a room made to serve the select international clientele that makes the journey here to enjoy the landscape, the architecture, the charming, ultra-professional service and a doctoral cuisine inspired by Antoine Westermann, wonderfully executed by Vincent Farges.
Academic, technical, refined… in short, French savoir-faire – classic inspirations with conventional flavors and modern shapes. The dishes are in transition between the past and future, called upon to please any public with their unmistakable quality and the rigor with which they are prepared. Everything is contrasted, effective and pleasant.
The labor and effort here is appreciated from the hors d’oeuvres to the petits-fours. An infinity of details: foie gras mousse with clementine gelatin, cauliflower cream with smoked bacon, steamed sole, terrine of mountain kid and foie gras with Madeira wine gelatin… it was a copious and convincing start capturing the delightful philosophy of the establishment. For the main courses, the noble, succulent and creamy terrine of foie gras of Les Landes goose whose medallion is adorned with a golden crown of Muscatel gelatin, aromatized with freshly ground pepper and offered with a counterpoint of fruit compote in which one notes the clean flavor of apple and pear – cultured high gastronomy in full magnitude. The quality and doneness of the blue lobster is superb, with a consistent and immaculate flavor, it is served roasted over a bed of salsifies, pear and grapes with an exciting spiced chocolate sauce served on the side, not touching the shellfish, so that the diner may interpret the quantities according to personal taste. The turbot passed almost unnoticed, both for its intrinsic quality and its mediocre execution: overdone and served without its gelatinous and delicious skin. The accompaniments received more praise than the fish itself: almonds, capers, noisette butter and a very correct parsnip puree. The sea bass was a great improvement, though also served without its skin which gives it personality, flavor and beauty, it arrived in an impeccable state of juiciness with exultant complements: oyster tartar, broccoli, aromatic herbs and a frothy iodized sauce. The filet of suckling mountain goat (frozen) is offered precisely roasted, served with figs, grapes, berries, mushrooms and an apple-açai fruit compote – it confirms the style of construction and articulation of components.
The desserts, presided over by Antonio Gálvez, were fabulous. Banana with mango and vanilla, the chocolate shot… and sublime from every perspective (flavor, senses, color, complexity…), the Manjari chocolate mille-feuille filled with Tonka bean cream, nut compote and Madeira wine, with a creamy, full-flavored honey ice cream.
As for the service, Carlos Morais must be considered one of the finest maître d’s in all of Europe; and that is not an exaggeration.