Can Bosch

Although Joan Bosch has taken an appreciable turn in his cuisine, where more culinarily elaborate recipes now have a more prominent position, going to Cambrils is like going home for Christmas. In this tasteful town, in this eminent establishment, one’s body craves heartiness, and a repeat of unforgettable gastronomic adventures. Unless the sea disallows it, one must indulge in the sheer pleasure of a few murexes, or sea snails, which on this occasion were bigger and fresher than ever—exultant, colossal…decadent. Another absolute must is the wonderful prawn carpaccio with pine nut vinaigrette and coarse salt, always immaculate and with magical touches: a formula that has given this chef glory since time immemorial. What can we say about the rice, another specialty, offered in three different versions: the seafood paella, the phenomenal Carnaroli rice with clams, and the legendary arroz negro (black rice), which can be ordered by itself (preferable) or with grilled lobster; on this occasion, it was served with scallop medallions arranged in a circular patter. And there is, of course, another offering that has received much credit of late: the delicious sautéed baby octopus with spring garlic, Ratte potatoes and vegetable brunoise; impeccable in their elementality.

The grilled Tarragona prawns, as well as Joan prepares them and as much as he would like us to believe, have neither the size nor freshness of those of Palamos or Denia; but of course, the quality of the ingredient makes this a Byzantine discussion. Among the latest additions, three stand out for being spectacular, beautifully assembled and complex: the eggplant millefeuilles with onion confit, mackerel and fried sea cucumbers; the red mullet with murexes and small cuttlefish; and the sea bass covered with potato flakes and green pistachio pil pil. Dishes that stand out for the wonderful raw materials that give them life and splendor, and for precise doneness, enhancing their intrinsic qualities.

Three tasting menus of different styles—ingredient-centered, regional and haute cuisine—deserve consideration and make for very attractive competition.