Although Joan Bosch has taken an appreciable turn in his cuisine, where more culinarily elaborate recipes now have a more prominent position, going to Cambrils is like going home for Christmas. In this tasteful town, in this eminent establishment, one’s body craves heartiness, and a repeat of unforgettable gastronomic adventures. Unless the sea disallows it, one must indulge in the sheer pleasure of a few murexes, or sea snails, which on this occasion were bigger and fresher than ever—exultant, colossal…decadent.