Bruneau

Jean-Pierre Bruneau is a part of Belgian culinary mythology. He received three Michelin stars, influenced an era, and now continues to garner an 18 in the Gualt Millau and two stars in the red guide. His curriculum, immense professionalism, and the class of the restaurant, with elite service, help him attain such honors.

This is haute cuisine that is both classic and French. Conceptually, it originates in the glory years of the protagonist, or the decade of the eighties in the 20th century. A few distinct characteristics stand out, the first of which being refinement: once and again it expresses intense, adjusted flavors that pleasantly harmonize with affinity. The culinary base is also notable: always conventional sauces and complements, made with know-how and elegance. There is also no lack of effort—each recipe requires a great amount of work and includes numerous laboriously treated elements. The cuisine is therefore noble, high class, serene… and it will delight the millions of conservative palates that frequent great restaurants, of which Bruneau is one without doubt.

There are very architectural creations, with two spectacular examples. The paupiette of sole filets, arranged vertically and stuffed with pieces of lobster over an exultant lobster-truffle consommé; and the timbale of asparagus tips, extremely natural in flavor and texture—what quality, what doneness!— filled with eggs Mollet with a warm, light, splendid mayonnaise.

The cream tastes purely of artichokes and is magically accented by the flavor and consistency of whipped butter. Butter that also gives weight to a vegetable broth with beautifully shaped celeriac ravioli, filled with slices of truffles and goose foie gras—delicacies that simply give a memorable touch to the bulb, which retains its starring role. Accolades continue on, and reach their zenith in the caviar—hand-picked, select, served with smoked salmon and horseradish millefeuilles, or in parmentier with sour horseradish cream. The meat dishes are classical, focusing on the ingredient and combining technique and great sophistication: biscuit of squab—breast filled with foie gras, spinach, carrots, smoked bacon…—with the legs caramelized with soy. Another example of exuberance is the filet mignon à la Rossini, served with small pasta with Parmesan and stuffed vegetables. And among the desserts, the winner is the passion fruit soufflé.