Brouwerskolkje

Roth Moshik is a big kid who is happiest playing with culinary technology. Machines and techniques, the most recent and sophisticated, fill his life. And he controls them like an alchemist. Always investigating, always turning over the technological inventions and those of other chefs. He devours experiments. As a consequence, this is a laboratory cuisine impregnated with a playful spirit… slightly unruly. Nothing, absolutely nothing that is served here is predictable.
Moshik is so convinced and coherent that he practices his art almost entirely with tasting menus. There is a small menu of 10 dishes to add a few options, though the real reason to visit this restaurant is the tasting menu, offered in four, five or six courses, or, above all, the ‘innovative menu’, comprised of twenty some odd courses, in pure Adrià style. It is evident that Roth has his own personality: he is well informed of the work of Ferran, Dacosta, Roca, Klein, Blumenthal, Achatz… he studies them, but he makes his own selections, develops them, mixing and remixing to finally give his creations a particular air all their own.
Just by tasting the ‘Cryo’ of country eggs with lyophilized saline toffee, breadcrumbs and chives one can intuit what the chef has in store. The exceptional beet crystalline, almost inconsistent, with a hint of sweetness, served with raifort cream reaffirms the style: to surprise… an emotion that is repeated with the mini sandwiches of goose foie gras with chartreuse enclosed in coconut. The collection of savory virtual macaroni is a brilliant idea that could be even better if more attention was paid to the textural result: flavored with smoked eel and herbs, vadovan with cream cheese and squid ink with mushroom cream. The pizza is a small puff pastry with all the traditional elements of such a popular dish, crowned with a jellied sphere of mozzarella. Unusual pairings, such as the crab with arroz negro (rice blackened with squid ink), lime, kefir and Granny Smith apple, express contrasts and freshness. The blue lobster, raw and hot, with a carrot domino coated with lemon verbena and a foamy Colombo curry sauce expresses the weight of nature itself: the sea, herbs and spices all come together in extraordinary refinement. Memorable for its intrinsic delicacy, technical development and arrangement of complements, the goose foie gras with wakame seaweed, wakame foam, wakame infusion, grapefruit, grapefruit jelly and toasted, grated bread. And the low-temperature Anjou squab with natural juices, corn puree, beet, olives with cherries and quinoa cooked in a concentrated fowl stock assembles an exuberance of sensations and modernity via a classical structure – colossal. In short, this is experimental cuisine that must be tried.