100 Maneiras

Ljubomir Stanisic practices the most conceptually advanced cuisine in Portugal. With his own personal, intellectual criteria, employing avant-garde techniques he conveys a clearly distinct message, contemporary and cosmopolitan, where the chef’s character comes before any culinary references. Ideas seemingly bubble up from his mind until they are captured, manifested; with a profound process of reflection remaining evident in his creations. Otherwise put, one senses the imagination, studiousness and meditative approach in his work… culminating in the creation of quite cerebral dishes. Nonetheless, and regardless of the elegance and harmony of his creations, of the balance with which his constructions are produced, his cuisine is distant from what is sociologically considered Portuguese cuisine. This is a chef with international projection who should probably transplant himself to Lisbon, or even set his eyes on conquering the world of gastronomy outside his country. Already his proposals go beyond the comprehension of the town of Cascais and many of us fear that Portugal on the whole is unable to appreciate his talents. Therein lies the grandeur and obstacles of this misunderstood artist: localize his cuisine or move to somewhere his talents will be appreciated.
The seared scallop, browned on the exterior and warm inside, encircled by a leek foam, adorned with microvegetables and enriched with a truffle turnover has no other secret than the nobility of the components and the professional perfectionism of the chef. The sliced duck magret with goose foie gras and Madeira reduction offers a new focal point, playful and even slightly evocative of historic flavors. The Setubal red mullet is superb (there is no other word for it): the filet is exceptional, bursting with marine flavors and astonishingly juicy, it is presented alongside mussels and cockles, all served over a bed of breadcrumbs soaked in shellfish juices. The roasted suckling pig served like a mille-feuille with stewed vegetables was done in a pure Michel Bras style… purity, texture and color are adorned by a refined garlic air certifying the virtues and natural gifts of the chef: lucidity, solidity, technique, complexity, immaculateness, lightness and aesthetics, among others. The aerated ricotta cream with pumpkin ice cream, inspired by the shape of a fried egg with brush strokes of honey and powdered nuts and spices is infallible in its use of color and flavor: colossal, sublime… majestic.
We will have to wait and see if so much talent, such an artistic approach and such a high level of professionalism is capable of succeeding in this location. Ljubomir Stanisic, at 29 years of age, needs success to continue to grow, to consecrate himself as one of the most important exponents of the new generation of European chefs.