Sud
mb-francescana@libero.it
With this dish, Massimo Bottura won the III International Championship of Virgin Olive Oil Recipes “Jaén, paraíso interior”, and he did it with daring and solemnity. It is a valiant dessert, exuberant in its nuances, exultant in its counterpoints, prepared in utter balance with virtuosic harmony. Bitter, acidic, sweet… sensations expressed with moderation and conjunction. Diverse and pure, each element in the construction, and there are many, manifests itself immaculately: olive oil ice cream, a mousse of white chocolate and olives, almond sponge cake and hot foam. The imagination is impregnated with wise refinement.
The Recipe
Ingredients
Capers
Coffee transparency
- 300g espresso (light Arabica)
- 10g sugar
- 2g agar-agar
Almond sponge cake
- 300g eggs
- 500g sugar
- 150g Noto almonds, coarsely chopped
- 500g flour
- 375g goat milk
- 20g baking powder
- 300g Frantoio 2004 extra virgin olive oil
- orange and lemon zest
Materano paprika
- 5g chili powder, crushed with a mortar.
- 50g extra virgin olive oil
- 1 vanilla bean
Chocolate powder
- 6 egg yolks
- 6 egg whites
- 300g melted chocolate
- 30g cocoa
- 30g flour
- 40g butter
Wafer
- 35g Noto almond powder
- 35g chocolate powder (above)
- 35g dehydrated rice powder
- 15g sugar
- a few drops of water
Moraiolo 2001 extra virgin olive oil ice cream
- 700g whole milk
- 130g sugar
- 9g stabilizer
- 70g powdered milk
- 30g dextrose
- 30g inverted sugar
- 150g Il Sogno extra virgin olive oil
- 50g lemon confit
- zest from half a lemon peel
White chocolate mousse and Pizzuta olive paste
- 350g goat milk
- 15g sugar
- 50g starch
- 175g white chocolate
- 250g light cream
- 40g Pizzuta variety black olives, very finely chopped
- 20g crushed olive paste
Hot Sicilia café almond paste foam
- 160g egg whites, run through a sieve
- 100g almond cream
- 100g milk
- 70g syrup
Method
Capers
Allow the Serragghia capers to dry and remove two thirds of the Guerande salt flakes. Season one third with the essence (distilled) of bell pepper and another third with the muscovado sugar crystals. Pick them up with tongs and run them through the Isomalt sugar heated to 180ºC. Keep in a dry place (away from moisture).
Coffee transparency
Bring the coffee to a boil, add the sugar and immediately remove from heat while the gelatin is added. Return to heat and mix with an egg beater until the gelatin is fully incorporated. Remove from heat and spread onto a moist tray in a fine, even layer.
Almond sponge cake
Whip the eggs with the sugar, slowly mix in the sugar, then add the flour and chopped almonds and perfume with the zests. Mix in the baking powder and delicately pour in the extra virgin olive oil.
Materano paprika
Mix all of the ingredients at 50ºC. Allow to rest, then strain (the original paprika didn’t satisfy me, so I have chosen to use a very sweet and delicate Lacio oil that imparts the aromas of the dry chili crushed with a mortar).
Chocolate powder
Beat the egg yolks, melt the chocolate with the butter and mix in the yolks. Then add the cocoa and the flour, followed last by the whites. Bake in the oven at 200ºC for 10 minutes, dehydrate in a smoker and pulverize.
Wafer
Mix and give the paste the desired shape on a silicone sheet. Bake for 6 minutes at 200ºC.
Moraiolo 2001 extra virgin olive oil ice cream
Boil the milk with the lemon, then add the sugar, powdered milk and dextrose. Mix in the stabilizer, pour into the Thermomix and emulsify very slowly with the inverted sugar, oil and lemon zest. Stabilize and freeze in Paco Jet molds.
White chocolate mousse and Pizzuta olive paste
Mix the sugar and the starch, blend it well with the boiled milk followed by the while chocolate. Bring to 22ºC, add the olives and then the whipped cream one spoonful at a time.
Hot Sicilia café almond paste foam
This dish has historical references in Marchesi’s open ravioli, Massimiliano Alajmo’s capers with coffee, and Ferran’s white chocolate and olive mousse.
For the assembly, arrange the three ravioli so they fluctuate in a metaphysical sense, with the cylinder in the center to give it a three-dimensional effect reminiscent of Russian constructivism in the 1920s.