Grilled cep ice cream

Grilled cep ice cream
El Celler de Can Roca
Chef: Joan Roca
Country: España
City: 17007 Girona
Address: Ctra. Taiala 40
(+34) 972222157

Joan Roca’s creative capacity never ceases to amaze us. In 2004 we have tried about thirty new dishes, almost all of which are masterful. The most stunning one—for its spectacular aesthetic, its sheer craziness and its harmoniously confrontational flavors—is the grilled cep ice cream. Genius. We repeat, genius.

It is a salty mushroom ice cream topped with a half bell made of colorless caramel (similar in appearance to a blown glass ball); it is translucent and very crunchy, with fragrances deposited inside that are imperceptible to the eye but captivating to the olfactory—the olive tree smoke aroma it releases is a surprise, albeit a subtle one designed with good sense so as to intensify the other elements without saturating the olfactory. A few thin slices of mushrooms confit serve as a base for the ice cream and sugar dome, making for exceptional culinary architecture.

This recipe is spawning offshoots, like the char-grilled pine nut ice cream with pineapple aroma.

With this recipe El Celler de Can Roca is awarded a sixth Recipe of the Year—following the hot foie gras with lychees, rose petals and Gewurztraminer sorbet; the velouté of crustaceans, fennel, tomato, sea urchin and caviar; the pigeon liver parfait with juniper, Bristol Cream, hazelnuts and orange; the Trésor de Lancôme; and the Norway lobsters with curry smoke, apples and asparagus lettuce. A number equaled only by Akelare and Las Rejas and surpassed by Martín Berasategui and El Bulli.



The Recipe



The caramel
Ingredients

  • 200g fondant
  • 125g isomalt sugar
  • 125g glucose
  • 10 drops 50% citric acid solution

Method

Caramelize the sugars up to 150ºC, then add the citric acid and raise the temperature to 160ºC. Spread the caramel and give it gloss by stretching it and bringing it back together 15 to 20 times to homogenize the heat. Shape into a ball, heat the tip of an air pump, insert it into the ball and inflate until you have the desired shape and size. Make sure the caramel layer is as thin as possible.

The ice cream
Ingredients

  • 462g whole milk
  • 124g cream, 35% fat
  • 54g nonfat powdered milk
  • 176g dextrose
  • 20g sucrose
  • 8g neutral cream stabilizer
  • 6g salt
  • 150g ceps

Method

Infuse half of the milk with the sautéed ceps. When the mixture heats to 60ºC, add the powdered milk, dextrose, salt, sugar and neutral cream stabilizer. Once at 85ºC, mix in a blender and keep in the cold-storage room for 12 hours. Lastly, churn in an ice cream maker.

The ceps
Ingredients

  • Olive tree sawdust smoke
  • 2 dl olive oil
  • 200 g ceps

Method

Select the caps of the ceps. Confit them in oil, drain and freeze.

Assembly:

Cut the ceps into thin slices and arrange them in the base of the plate with a quenelle of ice cream on top. Introduce the sawdust smoke into the caramel ball and arrange over the ice cream to cover it.