Egg spaghetti, garlic, oil and chilies
cracco-peck@peck.it
Carlo Cracco has a well-ordered brain that allows him to communicate a well-structured message. One of the two styles that characterize his work greatly fascinates us: the minimalist one that harmonizes sharp flavor contrasts. We have many examples in which infinite contents are reduced to titles. Works of genius like the risotto, of the highest quality and flawlessly cooked, with three magical touches: anchovy oil, lemon and cocoa; it is impossible to express more with so few points. He has taken this same concept to different areas and reached his zenith with the greatest of the great flagships of Italian cuisine: pasta. He has successfully bested the dichotomy of with or without egg. And he has done it by denying the main ingredient and leaving out the flour. The creation, because this is a creation deserving of the greatest culinary honor, consists of making, from the egg—even better, from its essence, the yolk—the most delicious of pastas. It can then be given various shapes: macaroni, spaghetti… we choose the latter. They have revolutionary qualities. First, the color screams for attention: saffron-like, befitting the yolk of a corn-fed free-range hen. Next comes the texture, dense and buttery at the same time, evoking certain salted fish roe, like those of the Mediterranean ling. The flavor surpasses the richness to become immaculately delicious. And then, there are the enhancers, of this yolk’s purity in the unmistakable form of spaghetti and the texture of roe: the oil and the chilies, with which it is sautéed, and the garlic, which is smoked and softened with milk and converted to cream.
The Recipe
MARINATED EGG PASTA
Ingredients
- 16 egg yolks
- 1kg smoked salt
- 250g sugar
- 300g borlotti beans, pureed
Method
Mix the smoked salt and sugar uniformly with the bean puree, spoon a bit of this preparation into an individual mold and place a yolk on top. Repeat with the rest of the yolks.
Marinate for 4 hours.
Clarify the yolks in water, coat two sheets of baking paper with oil, spread the yolks evenly over one paper and cover with the other. Use a rolling pin to make a thin layer. Keep at room temperature for about 5-7 hours, after which the pasta can be used by giving it the desired shape.
For spaghetti, spread out the pasta sheet with a rolling pin for tagliolini.
EGG SPAGHETTI, GARLIC, OIL AND CHILIES
Ingredients
- 200g egg spaghetti
- 1L milk
- 1 head smoked garlic
- 2g agar-agar
- 24 leaves parsley
- 1dL extra virgin olive oil
Method
Place the milk with the head of garlic in a pot and cook over low heat until the garlic softens and breaks up. Run through a chinois and dehydrate the garlic skin in the oven at 70ºC for 1 hour; once dry, finely chop to make a fine powder. Bring the garlic milk to a boil and add the agar-agar. Refrigerate until firm.
Run the garlic gelatin through a blender to make a smooth cream; add salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the garlic milk into the base of a serving dish and sprinkle with a little garlic powder. Arrange the spaghetti, previously sautéed in a pan for 1 minute over low heat, together with the chilies.
Garnish with the parsley leaves and a little olive oil.