8,25

Terra do Castelo Godello 10


Terra do Castelo Godello 10
Bodega Cooperativa San Roque de Beade, S.C.G.

Tipo: Blanco
Nazionalita: España
Zona: Ribeiro
Localita: 32415 Beade (Ourense)
Indirizzo: Carretera Rivadavia-Carballiño, Km. 4
(+34) 988471522
Anno di fondazione: 2004
Produzione (bottiglie): 800.000
Ettari di vigneto: 200
Marchi: Los blancos Terra do Castelo Selección, Godello, Treixadura y Sensación Blanco y los tintos Mencía y Sensación Tinto
Prezzo: 10 €


Marca la diferencia por ser un godello en Ribeiro. Muy expresivo en nariz, con un aroma excelente y pronunciado que atesora esencias florales, hierba fresca y anís silvestre, con rasgos cítricos como limón o pomelo, que perduran en el tiempo. Enormemente frutoso, bastante untuoso, estructurado, con una matizada y permanente acidez, redondo, con un final harto complejo y armónico. 7.000 botellas.

 



8,5

Casal de Armán 13


Casal de Armán 11
Casal de Armán

Tipo: Blanco
Nazionalita: España
Zona: Ribeiro
Localita: 32415 O Cotiño. San Andrés. Ribadavia (Ourense)
Indirizzo:
(+34) 699060464
Anno di fondazione: 1999
Produzione (bottiglie): 80.000 botellas
Ettari di vigneto: 20 en 6 fincas situadas en San André de Camporedondo, San Clodio, Banga, Beade, Esposende y Veiga
Marchi: Casal de Armán Blanco, Armán Blanco Lias, Armán Blanco Madera, Clodomino Blanco Casal de Armán Tinto, Armán Tinto Barrica.
Prezzo: 12 €


Apreciable potencia aromática, desprendiendo sensaciones a uva, pequeñas frutas de hueso en sazón, manzana y albaricoque, también a flores blancas y heno, muy complejo y peculiar. En boca presenta un perfecto equilibrio entre acidez y dulzor, mostrando franqueza, frescura y untuosidad, refrendando la riqueza de matices.
Elaborado con Treixadura 90%, Godello 5% y Albariño 5%. 70.000 Botellas.
 



8

Alberte 10


Alberte 10
Nairoa, S.L.

Tipo: Blanco
Nazionalita: España
Zona: Ribeiro
Localita: 32417 Arnoia (Ourense)
Indirizzo: Lugar de Queixeira, A Ponte, nº, 2.
(+34) 988492867
Anno di fondazione: 1999
Produzione (bottiglie): 180.000 botellas
Ettari di vigneto: 20 Arnoia y Castrelo de Miño
Marchi: Val de Nairoa, Nairoa, Alberte y Terralonga
Prezzo: 6,5 €


Gran bodega que sitúa dos Ribeiros en este guía, Val de Nairoa y Alberte. El primero integrado en un 80% por treixadura, en un 10% por albariño y en otro 10% por lado y este que se compone en un 80% por treixadura y en 20% por torrontés. 40.000 botellas.
Atesora elegantes aromas frutales y delicadas notas florales. En boca se muestra expresivo, untuoso, con fresca acidez, un punto de amargor y manifestando un perfecto equilibrio. Tiene enjundia y a la vez al siguiente trago.
 



8,25

Val de Nairoa 10


Val de Nairoa 10
Nairoa, S.L.

Tipo: Blanco
Nazionalita: España
Zona: Ribeiro
Localita: 32417 Arnoia (Ourense)
Indirizzo: Lugar de Queixeira, A Ponte, nº 2
(+34) 988492867
Anno di fondazione: 1999
Produzione (bottiglie): 180.000 botellas
Ettari di vigneto: 20 Arnoia y Castrelo de Miño
Marchi: Val de Nairoa, Nairoa, Alberte y Terralonga
Prezzo: 9 €


Posee una nariz sumamente elegante, intensa, franca y compleja, de clara definición gallega, en la que conviven matices de fruta blanca madura con hierbas aromáticas y notas minerales. En boca se reproducen varias de esas sensaciones, mostrando potencia, amplitud, finura y armonía, con vivacidad, chispeante y una sutil acidez, perfectamente ensamblada, que transmite enorme frescor. Apreciable estructura dentro de su ligereza. Un vino con entidad y que a la vez corre fácil, con enjundia.
Tres variedades lo configuran: 80% treixadura, 10% albariño y 10% lado
 



8,25

Cunqueiro III Milenium 11


Cunqueiro III Milenium 11
Bodegas Cunqueiro, S.L.

Tipo: Blanco
Nazionalita: España
Zona: Ribeiro
Localita: 32430 Castrello de Mino (Ourense).
Indirizzo: Prado, 3
(+34) 988489023
Anno di fondazione: 1985
Produzione (bottiglie): 600.000
Ettari di vigneto: 4
Marchi: Mais de Cunqueiro, Cuqueira, Cunqueiro III Milenium y Anciño blanco y tinto
Prezzo: 10 €


Un vino muy especial, con una cierta personalidad agridulce, elaborado con teixadura, godello, albariño y un poquito de loureira. Especialmente aromático y especialmente afrutado, con recuerdos a manzana, pera, piña, así como a hierbas anisadas y frescas, eneldo y lavanda. En boca refrenda la frutosidad, con notas dulces y ácidas, mostrándose muy evolutivo y complejo.



9,5

Vendôme

Joachim Wissler
Joachim Wissler
Nazionalita: Alemania
Localita: 51429 Bergisch Gladbach-Bensberg
Indirizzo: Kadettenstrabe
mapa
(+49) 02204421941
Chiusura:: Mondays and Tuesdays
Prezzo: 220/400 €
Menu di degustazione: 150 / 190 / 245 €


  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra

Joachim Wissler is a chef that emotionally moves his guests– a seducer of palates, if you will. For all the beauty his dishes express, for the intellectual construction they demonstrate… never revealing what flavors they hold until the moment in which you taste them. Hiding exciting elements that satiate the guest with pleasure. One is conquered by the primary truth of gastronomy – good taste – but at Vendôme one senses not just good taste… exquisite taste. To such an extent that we can, even must confirm that only a very select few chefs in the world have impressed us as much for having such a well-developed natural gift. To not mince our words, Wissler is a GENIUS OF FLAVOR. A genius of flavour, a wise man who, after a long and quiet process of reflection and imagination, is able to assemble and build in a perfect way. A genius of flavor and a PERFECTIONNIST who obtains magnanimous results subordinating special effects to palatal excellence.
Jürgen Dollase, the premier German critic, let us know in no uncertain terms: “He is the best chef in my country, with the most advanced ideas.” It was an accurate, perhaps even moderate statement: Wissler is a world-class chef: a refiner of flavor. Unique of his kind. A magician who, without any tricks, manages to always, and we mean always, balance the flavors in his creations. Even with difficult combinations that might seem impossible, he produces amazingly harmonious constructions. It is not because he is attempting to astonish his guests with obscurity – on the contrary, he is cold, cerebral, studied, technical, precise, meticulous, infallible… a virtuoso projecting immaculate and exciting flavors. The nuances, ever-present in his proposals, are always insinuated, never glaring. Hints hidden away in a sublime, silky ensemble. Joachim has the power to sweeten the acidic and to acidify the sweet. He makes the impossible possible, turning taste into a precise mathematical equation.
The restaurant offers different tasting menus that completely change every year, some of the dishes being modified according to the seasons. The appetizer is a quite complex game. The guest has to guess what kind of vegetable the attractive and delicate crunchy leaves –immaculate– are made of (carrot, cauliflower, kombu seaweed, celery and leek), which is rather difficult, because they have all been dehydrated. Each of them is served with a different yoghurt (cheese-flavoured, for example). 10/10 for delicacy and precision. The royale reflects German technique: crab threads covered by a cold royale made of the animal’s livers, mint and peas cream, sculptural crunchy bread. This dish and its finishing could not be any better. The most subtle refinement melts smoothly in the mouth and tastes like sunflower seeds, contrasting in tact and flavour with an explosive and oceanic caviar, served with a beet stuffed with a technocratic cherry, which is in fact a beet jelly filled with salad and whose tail is a Chinese sorrel. Aesthetic and luxury, chromatism and sumptuousness: this is the way we can qualify the appearance and taste of the liquid yolk, accompanied with brunoised Iberian ham and tapioca, crowned by a thin black truffle jelly and a julienne of the same tuber on it. Strong and brilliant contrasts, incredibly soft: oyster with marrow, pistachios, black garlic and coriander purée. The updated palace-like classicism is definitely present in the bone marrow proposed with tail jelly, morels cream, thinly sprinkled with spring onion, morels and flowers, onto a mossy base. Historical memory that is wonderfully reflected and gives infinite pleasure. The mackerel with pistachios cream and juice plus pear cubes is really essential and pure. It goes without saying that the raw materials are always unbeatable here, as well as the doneness, like in the sole filet with its skin, smooth and tasty, served with shrimps, just heated, asparagus and carrot strips and an exciting touch of green curry, really aromatic, and vegetables. As noble and precise, but without any exotic note, deeply palatal, we find the extremely juicy red mullet, proposed with its crunchy scales swimming into a chickpea soup, with the liver of the fish, wild celery and beans. The lamb brains laid on spinach and capers with tomato juice are praised for their minimalism and execution as well as for their delightful and harmonic combination. The pigeon with truffle juice, sesame cream, canapé made with the innards of the animal and salad is definitely magnanimous.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is one of the 10 best restaurants in the world. Its dining-room, led by Miguel Calero, is another reason why this is one of the 10 best tables we can enjoy both palatally and mentally.
 



9,5

Vendôme

Joachim Wissler
Joachim Wissler
Nazionalita: Alemania
Localita: 51429 Bergisch Gladbach-Bensberg
Indirizzo: Kadettenstrabe
mapa
(+49) 02204421941
Chiusura:: Mondays and Tuesdays
Prezzo: 220/400 €
Menu di degustazione: 150 / 190 / 245 €


  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra

Joachim Wissler is a chef that emotionally moves his guests– a seducer of palates, if you will. For all the beauty his dishes express, for the intellectual construction they demonstrate… never revealing what flavors they hold until the moment in which you taste them. Hiding exciting elements that satiate the guest with pleasure. One is conquered by the primary truth of gastronomy – good taste – but at Vendôme one senses not just good taste… exquisite taste. To such an extent that we can, even must confirm that only a very select few chefs in the world have impressed us as much for having such a well-developed natural gift. To not mince our words, Wissler is a GENIUS OF FLAVOR. A genius of flavour, a wise man who, after a long and quiet process of reflection and imagination, is able to assemble and build in a perfect way. A genius of flavor and a PERFECTIONNIST who obtains magnanimous results subordinating special effects to palatal excellence.
Jürgen Dollase, the premier German critic, let us know in no uncertain terms: “He is the best chef in my country, with the most advanced ideas.” It was an accurate, perhaps even moderate statement: Wissler is a world-class chef: a refiner of flavor. Unique of his kind. A magician who, without any tricks, manages to always, and we mean always, balance the flavors in his creations. Even with difficult combinations that might seem impossible, he produces amazingly harmonious constructions. It is not because he is attempting to astonish his guests with obscurity – on the contrary, he is cold, cerebral, studied, technical, precise, meticulous, infallible… a virtuoso projecting immaculate and exciting flavors. The nuances, ever-present in his proposals, are always insinuated, never glaring. Hints hidden away in a sublime, silky ensemble. Joachim has the power to sweeten the acidic and to acidify the sweet. He makes the impossible possible, turning taste into a precise mathematical equation.
The restaurant offers different tasting menus that completely change every year, some of the dishes being modified according to the seasons. The appetizer is a quite complex game. The guest has to guess what kind of vegetable the attractive and delicate crunchy leaves –immaculate– are made of (carrot, cauliflower, kombu seaweed, celery and leek), which is rather difficult, because they have all been dehydrated. Each of them is served with a different yoghurt (cheese-flavoured, for example). 10/10 for delicacy and precision. The royale reflects German technique: crab threads covered by a cold royale made of the animal’s livers, mint and peas cream, sculptural crunchy bread. This dish and its finishing could not be any better. The most subtle refinement melts smoothly in the mouth and tastes like sunflower seeds, contrasting in tact and flavour with an explosive and oceanic caviar, served with a beet stuffed with a technocratic cherry, which is in fact a beet jelly filled with salad and whose tail is a Chinese sorrel. Aesthetic and luxury, chromatism and sumptuousness: this is the way we can qualify the appearance and taste of the liquid yolk, accompanied with brunoised Iberian ham and tapioca, crowned by a thin black truffle jelly and a julienne of the same tuber on it. Strong and brilliant contrasts, incredibly soft: oyster with marrow, pistachios, black garlic and coriander purée. The updated palace-like classicism is definitely present in the bone marrow proposed with tail jelly, morels cream, thinly sprinkled with spring onion, morels and flowers, onto a mossy base. Historical memory that is wonderfully reflected and gives infinite pleasure. The mackerel with pistachios cream and juice plus pear cubes is really essential and pure. It goes without saying that the raw materials are always unbeatable here, as well as the doneness, like in the sole filet with its skin, smooth and tasty, served with shrimps, just heated, asparagus and carrot strips and an exciting touch of green curry, really aromatic, and vegetables. As noble and precise, but without any exotic note, deeply palatal, we find the extremely juicy red mullet, proposed with its crunchy scales swimming into a chickpea soup, with the liver of the fish, wild celery and beans. The lamb brains laid on spinach and capers with tomato juice are praised for their minimalism and execution as well as for their delightful and harmonic combination. The pigeon with truffle juice, sesame cream, canapé made with the innards of the animal and salad is definitely magnanimous.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is one of the 10 best restaurants in the world. Its dining-room, led by Miguel Calero, is another reason why this is one of the 10 best tables we can enjoy both palatally and mentally.
 



9,5

Vendôme

Joachim Wissler
Joachim Wissler
Nazionalita: Alemania
Localita: 51429 Bergisch Gladbach-Bensberg
Indirizzo: Kadettenstrabe
mapa
(+49) 02204421941
Chiusura:: Mondays and Tuesdays
Prezzo: 220/400 €
Menu di degustazione: 150 / 190 / 245 €


  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Hojas crocantes de verduras
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Royal de buey de mar con crocante de foie gras y menta
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Crema de pipas con caviar y remolacha
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Ostras con tuétano al pistacho y puré de cilantro
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Caballa con pistacho y pera
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra
  • Sesos de cordero con jugo de tomate y alcaparra

Joachim Wissler is a chef that emotionally moves his guests– a seducer of palates, if you will. For all the beauty his dishes express, for the intellectual construction they demonstrate… never revealing what flavors they hold until the moment in which you taste them. Hiding exciting elements that satiate the guest with pleasure. One is conquered by the primary truth of gastronomy – good taste – but at Vendôme one senses not just good taste… exquisite taste. To such an extent that we can, even must confirm that only a very select few chefs in the world have impressed us as much for having such a well-developed natural gift. To not mince our words, Wissler is a GENIUS OF FLAVOR. A genius of flavour, a wise man who, after a long and quiet process of reflection and imagination, is able to assemble and build in a perfect way. A genius of flavor and a PERFECTIONNIST who obtains magnanimous results subordinating special effects to palatal excellence.
Jürgen Dollase, the premier German critic, let us know in no uncertain terms: “He is the best chef in my country, with the most advanced ideas.” It was an accurate, perhaps even moderate statement: Wissler is a world-class chef: a refiner of flavor. Unique of his kind. A magician who, without any tricks, manages to always, and we mean always, balance the flavors in his creations. Even with difficult combinations that might seem impossible, he produces amazingly harmonious constructions. It is not because he is attempting to astonish his guests with obscurity – on the contrary, he is cold, cerebral, studied, technical, precise, meticulous, infallible… a virtuoso projecting immaculate and exciting flavors. The nuances, ever-present in his proposals, are always insinuated, never glaring. Hints hidden away in a sublime, silky ensemble. Joachim has the power to sweeten the acidic and to acidify the sweet. He makes the impossible possible, turning taste into a precise mathematical equation.
The restaurant offers different tasting menus that completely change every year, some of the dishes being modified according to the seasons. The appetizer is a quite complex game. The guest has to guess what kind of vegetable the attractive and delicate crunchy leaves –immaculate– are made of (carrot, cauliflower, kombu seaweed, celery and leek), which is rather difficult, because they have all been dehydrated. Each of them is served with a different yoghurt (cheese-flavoured, for example). 10/10 for delicacy and precision. The royale reflects German technique: crab threads covered by a cold royale made of the animal’s livers, mint and peas cream, sculptural crunchy bread. This dish and its finishing could not be any better. The most subtle refinement melts smoothly in the mouth and tastes like sunflower seeds, contrasting in tact and flavour with an explosive and oceanic caviar, served with a beet stuffed with a technocratic cherry, which is in fact a beet jelly filled with salad and whose tail is a Chinese sorrel. Aesthetic and luxury, chromatism and sumptuousness: this is the way we can qualify the appearance and taste of the liquid yolk, accompanied with brunoised Iberian ham and tapioca, crowned by a thin black truffle jelly and a julienne of the same tuber on it. Strong and brilliant contrasts, incredibly soft: oyster with marrow, pistachios, black garlic and coriander purée. The updated palace-like classicism is definitely present in the bone marrow proposed with tail jelly, morels cream, thinly sprinkled with spring onion, morels and flowers, onto a mossy base. Historical memory that is wonderfully reflected and gives infinite pleasure. The mackerel with pistachios cream and juice plus pear cubes is really essential and pure. It goes without saying that the raw materials are always unbeatable here, as well as the doneness, like in the sole filet with its skin, smooth and tasty, served with shrimps, just heated, asparagus and carrot strips and an exciting touch of green curry, really aromatic, and vegetables. As noble and precise, but without any exotic note, deeply palatal, we find the extremely juicy red mullet, proposed with its crunchy scales swimming into a chickpea soup, with the liver of the fish, wild celery and beans. The lamb brains laid on spinach and capers with tomato juice are praised for their minimalism and execution as well as for their delightful and harmonic combination. The pigeon with truffle juice, sesame cream, canapé made with the innards of the animal and salad is definitely magnanimous.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is one of the 10 best restaurants in the world. Its dining-room, led by Miguel Calero, is another reason why this is one of the 10 best tables we can enjoy both palatally and mentally.
 



8,5

Auberge du Vieux Puits

Gilles Goujon
Gilles Goujon
Nazionalita: Francia
Localita: 11360 Fontjoncouse
Indirizzo: 5, Av. Saint-Victor
mapa
(+33) 0468440737
Chiusura:: Dimanche soir, lundi, mardi, janvier et février. En été, seulement fermé le lundi midi
Prezzo: 120/170 €
Menu di degustazione: 130 €


  • Espuma de panceta ahumada con crema de habas y tosta de habas, setas y queso
  • Espuma de panceta ahumada con crema de habas y tosta de habas, setas y queso
  • Huevo de la Señora Carrus con apariencia de podrido sobre puré de champiñones tr
  • Huevo de la Señora Carrus con apariencia de podrido sobre puré de champiñones trufado
  • Foie gras asado con tosta sablée al pan de especias con ruibarbo
  • Foie gras asado con tosta sablée al pan de especias con ruibarbo
  • Ostra Gillardeau con caviar de mujol sobre puré de rúcola y berros y nata carame
  • Ostra Gillardeau con caviar de mújol sobre puré de rúcola y berros y nata caramelizada
  • Salmonete sobre cilindro de patata con sopa de pescados y espuma de rouille al a
  • Salmonete sobre cilindro de patata con sopa de pescados y espuma de rouille al azafrán
  • Cabrito en diferentes partes y cocciones
  • Cabrito en diferentes partes y cocciones

Personne n’a jamais fait de cadeau à Gilles Goujon. Au contraire. Reculé dans un endroit bucolique à l’écart du bruit et de la cohue, dans un bâtiment austère concédé par la petite Maison communale qu’il a restauré pendant une dizaine d’années, il a su se forger une clientèle considérable et atteindre le zénith des guides français : 5 toques au Gault Millau et 3 étoiles au Michelin. Nous sommes donc en présence d’un homme qui s’est formé seul, qui a dû lutter et ramer avant de devenir célèbre ; une célébrité que peu de chefs méritent autant.
Gilles Goujon est un homme heureux qui aime la bonne table, la table généreuse, et les paysages de l’endroit où il vit. C’est aussi un homme noble et authentique, comme le prouvent sa pratique et les produits qu’il utilise, toujours éminents et abondants. Généreux dans la vie et dans le travail, ses constructions s’avèrent toujours laborieuses et complexes. On y apprécie son amour du métier, forgé au cours de sa jeunesse aux côtés de Roger Vergé, qui lui a valu le prix du Meilleur Ouvrier de France.
Préparez-vous pour un festin à la fois charnel et raffiné. Ici, vous savourerez une cuisine de l’abondance et de la succulence, élaborée avec savoir-faire et passion. Puissante, élégante, vertueuse, regorgeant de saveurs traditionnelles, mises à jour, réinterprétées et clairement empreintes de sa personnalité.
Premier exemple des vertus précitées : la mousse de lard fumé avec crème aux fèves assortie d’un toast au fromage, de champignons et de fèves sans peau ; une articulation expressive et distinguée. Plus inspirée de valeurs intemporelles, ne manquez pas l’œuf de Madame Carrus, un genre d’œuf mollet que le serveur casse devant vous et dont sort le liquide qui, infiltré de truffe noire, donne l’impression d’avoir affaire à un œuf pourri ; spectaculaire, surprenant, disposé sur une purée de champignons truffée recouverte de truffe melanosporum et accompagné d’une brioche tiède à mâcher et d’une tasse à capuccino de champignons à boire; trois espaces délicieux, complexes, regorgeant de nuances et reflétant une technique immanquablement raffinée. La belle pièce de foie gras rôti, charnu, onctueux, regorgeant de saveur –une saveur honorable– s’avère pertinemment exquise. ElIe est proposée en compagnie d’une tarte sablée gourmande au pain d’épices, de rhubarbe à la meringue suisse et de fraises légèrement imprégnées de vinaigre balsamique. Une cuisine pleine de tempérament, on ne peut plus travaillée.
Autre exemple épatant de brio en termes de matières premières et d’exécution : la gigantesque huître Gillardeau à peine chauffée, crue et chaude, couronnée de caviar de mulet, disposée sur une purée verte de roquette et de cresson exultante et chapeautée d’une cloche fragile en caramel, le tout nappé à la dernière minute avec de la crème fraîche caramélisée. À côté, sur l’assiette, un tartare du mollusque avec mousse à l’eau de mer et une tartelette farcie de charcuterie de porc. Bref, une perfection gustative majestueuse. Hommage à la bouillabaisse, incommensurable : le filet de rouget sur cylindre de pomme de terre croquante farcie de brandade d’oignon en bullinada, déposé sur une soupe de poisons, moules, coques, légumes et pain grillé, en fusion avec de la mousse de rouille au safran, qui fond lorsque l’on verse le bouillon. Quel plaisir ! Autre mets grandiose axé autour du chevreau, éminent, proposé sous différentes formes : filet sur feuille croquante aux fines herbes, côtelettes à la plancha, épaule confite, brochette de rognons et cœur, le tout assorti d’une belle morille farcie de viande et rehaussée de jus de fleurs de thym ; sublime.
Le macaron à la framboise, le cancelé et la tartelette 100% chocolat sont colossaux. Les desserts, d’un même niveau, vont dans la même ligne, qu’il s’agisse des fraises assorties d’olives noires confites, sorbet au thym citron et madeleines au miel ; ou des cornets au cacao farcis de chocolat Guanaja et parfumés aux violettes, au poivre de Sichouan et aux framboises.
 



8,5

Auberge du Vieux Puits

Gilles Goujon
Gilles Goujon
Nazionalita: Francia
Localita: 11360 Fontjoncouse
Indirizzo: 5, Av. Saint-Victor
mapa
(+33) 0468440737
Chiusura:: Domingos noche, lunes, martes, enero y febrero. En verano solo el lunes al mediodía
Prezzo: 120/170 €
Menu di degustazione: 130 €


  • Espuma de panceta ahumada con crema de habas y tosta de habas, setas y queso
  • Espuma de panceta ahumada con crema de habas y tosta de habas, setas y queso
  • Huevo de la Señora Carrus con apariencia de podrido sobre puré de champiñones tr
  • Huevo de la Señora Carrus con apariencia de podrido sobre puré de champiñones trufado
  • Foie gras asado con tosta sablée al pan de especias con ruibarbo
  • Foie gras asado con tosta sablée al pan de especias con ruibarbo
  • Ostra Gillardeau con caviar de mujol sobre puré de rúcola y berros y nata carame
  • Ostra Gillardeau con caviar de mújol sobre puré de rúcola y berros y nata caramelizada
  • Salmonete sobre cilindro de patata con sopa de pescados y espuma de rouille al a
  • Salmonete sobre cilindro de patata con sopa de pescados y espuma de rouille al azafrán
  • Cabrito en diferentes partes y cocciones
  • Cabrito en diferentes partes y cocciones

A Gilles Goujon nadie le ha regalado nada. Muy al contrario, en un paraje bucólico alejado del mundanal ruido y en un edificio austero - concesión de un diminuto Ayuntamiento - , que ha ido remodelando paso a paso desde hace una década, ha sabido labrarse una multitudinaria clientela y auparse al cenit de las guías francesas: 5 Gorros en Gault Millau y tres estrellas en Michelín. Por tanto, estamos ante un hombre hecho a sí mismo, que a tenido que llorar y sudar sangre hasta alcanzar la celebridad, una celebridad que muy pocos merecen tanto.
Gilles Goujon es un hombre feliz, al que le gusta comer, comer mucho y el paisaje en el que habita. Es también una persona noble y auténtica, lo que se manifiesta en su quehacer y los productos que emplea, siempre excelsos y en cantidad. Generoso, y generoso en el esfuerzo, sus construcciones resultan siempre laboriosas y complicadas. Trasluce amor a su oficio, forjado en su juventud con Roger Vergé, ganó el título de Mejor Obrero de Francia.
Prepárese para un festín carnal y refinado a la vez. Cocina de la abundancia y la suculencia trazada con saber hacer y pasión. Potente, elegante, virtuosa…deparando sabores tradicionales; sabores tradicionales actualizados, rediseñados e impregnados de indudable personalidad.
Un primer testimonio de lo aseverado lo tenemos en la espuma de panceta ahumada con crema de habas, rematada en el aire con una tosta de queso, setas y habas repeladas; articulación tan expresiva como distinguida. Más inspiración en valores intemporales la encontramos en el huevo de la señora Carrus, de apariencia “mollet”, que al romper el camarero delante del comensal, brota líquido, de apariencia podrido, infiltrado de trufa negra, espectacular, sorprendente, dispuesto sobre un puré de champiñones trufado cubierto por melanosporum con el acompañamiento de un brioche tibio para masticar y una cubeta de capuchino de idénticas setas para beber; tres espacios deliciosos, complejos y rebosantes de matices con la constante de una técnica depuradísima. Ciertamente manjaroso el foie gras asado, un pedazo hermoso, carnoso, mantecoso, rebosante de sabor, de honorable sabor, al que secundan en escena una golosa torta sablée al pan de especias con ruibarbo en jaula de merengue suizo y unas fresas levemente impregnadas de vinagre balsámico. Insistimos, una cocina temperamental currada hasta la extenuación.
Otro testimonio deslumbrante de materia prima y oficio: gigantesca ostra Gillardeau escalfada un santiamén, cruda y caliente, coronada con caviar de mújol, dispuesta sobre un verde y exultante puré de rúcula y berros y bajo una fragilísima campana de caramelo; todo ello napado en el último momento con nata caramelizada. En otro lugar de la vajilla, un tartar del mismo marisco con espuma de agua de mar y una tartaleta de embutido de cerdo. En tres palabras, majestuosa impecabilidad gulesca. Inconmensurable homenaje a la bullabesa: lomo de salmonete sobre un cilindro de patata crujiente rellena de una brandada de cebolla “en bullinada”, colocado por encima de una sopa de pescados con mejillones, berberechos, verduras y pan tostado, fusionada con una espuma de “rouille” al azafrán, que se derrite al verter sobre ella el caldo. ¡Qué placer! Otro plato grande, grandísimo, el que tiene por protagonista al cabrito, un cabrito excelso, expuesto en múltiples zonas tratadas de diferentes maneras: lomo en hoja crocante a las hierbas, chuletilla planchada, espalda confitada, brocheta de riñón y corazón y, además, una hermosa colmenilla rellena de una farsa de carne y realzado con jugo de flores de tomillo…la intemerata.
Colosales el macarrón de frambuesa, el “cancelé” y la tartaleta de todo chocolate. Y en idéntico estilo y nivelazo los postres. Bien sea las fresas con olivas negras confitadas, sorbete de tomillo limón y magdalenas de miel; bien sea los conos de cacao rellenos de chocolate guanaja y perfumados con violetas, pimienta de Sichuan y frambuesas.