Sud

Sud
Osteria Francescana
Cuoco: Massimo Bottura
Nazionalita: Italia
Localita: 41100 Módena
Indirizzo: Via Stella, 22
(+39) 059220286

With this dish, Massimo Bottura won the III International Championship of Virgin Olive Oil Recipes “Jaén, paraíso interior”, and he did it with daring and solemnity. It is a valiant dessert, exuberant in its nuances, exultant in its counterpoints, prepared in utter balance with virtuosic harmony. Bitter, acidic, sweet… sensations expressed with moderation and conjunction. Diverse and pure, each element in the construction, and there are many, manifests itself immaculately: olive oil ice cream, a mousse of white chocolate and olives, almond sponge cake and hot foam. The imagination is impregnated with wise refinement.



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Ingredients
Capers

 

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Hommage To Iberian Pig Snout, Ear, Jowl And Stock With Potato Foam

Homenaje al Cerdo Iberico: Morro, Oreja, Papada y Caldo con Espuma de Patata
Martín Berasategui
Cuoco: Martín Berasategui
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 20160 Lasarte-Oria (Guipúzcoa)
Indirizzo: Loidi, 4
943366471

Martín Berasategui has dedicated this dish to one of the most emblematic characters of Spanish, and for that matter international gastronomy: José Gómez “Joselito”. With the remains of its majesty the Iberian pig, he achieves here an outstanding recipe. The preparation is virtuosic and the flavor transmitted is truly delicate. The bones used in the immaculate stock give it a clearly identifiable character. The essence is reinforced with the flavors of the snout, ear and jowl, parts that provide a discernible personality and infinite tactile richness. It is supple, gelatinous-cartilaginous, meaty and crispy, in harmony with the three main elements. The hot potato purée with foam texture complements the dish wonderfully. It ratifies the character and ancestral inspiration of this “ode to Iberian pig”, that is perfectly refined by the modern technique. A few slices of chestnut, boiled and then char-grilled, onion and arugula sprouts put the finishing touches on this fine, light delicacy. Unspeakably delicious.



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Pork cheek
Ingredients

  • 500g pork cheek
  • 400g stock of the day
  • 400g water
  • 300g celery
  • 4 shallots
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 3 cayenne chilies
  • 300g stock from blanching
  • 300g stock of the day

Method

1st step: first, clean the cheek well using a blowtorch and razor blades. Run under plenty of cold water if necessary to make sure it is fully clean.
2nd Step: starting with cold water, blanch the cheek for 2 hours over low heat with the rest of the ingredients.
3rd step: transfer the cheek to a tray and cool in the refrigerator. Once cold, set aside.
4th step: strain the stock from cooking through a fine sieve and set aside. Also set aside the stock of the day, in another pot.
5th step: seal in sous-vide bags, in portions of 3 pieces per bag, along with 300g of blanching stock and 300g of stock of the day.
6th step: set the Roner at 70ºC. Make sure there is plenty of water in the bath, and add the cheek when the water reaches the desired temperature. Seal the bath with plastic wrap so that it retains the same temperature for the duration of the cooking process and the water does not evaporate.Cook at 70ºC for 15 hours.
7th step: remove it from water and immediately transfer to an ice water bath. Chill for 3 hours. Once time has elapsed, keep in the refrigerator or freeze.
8th step: When the order is made, place the necessary portions in a deep dish along with the pork glaze, then cover with plastic wrap.Heat in the microwave for 2 minutes, then remove the cheek from the dish along with the glaze and transfer to a baking sheet.
9th step: Place in the oven at 150ºC and glaze the cheek as many times as necessary to prevent it from drying out, with the option of transferring it to the griddle on a grill with a cover; allow to rest and glaze as needed until served.

Pork juice
Ingredients

  • 10kg pork meat + 20kg pork spine (back)
  • 10 shallots
  • 10 onions, halved
  • 7 garlic heads, halved
  • 10 carrots
  • 6 liters red wine
  • 300g “chambo”

Method

Cut the spine into small, regular pieces, sauté various times, add the vegetables and lightly fry. Add the red wine and reduce by half. Then pour in the stock and add the Chambo. Simmer overnight. The following day, strain and season to taste.

Celery and green apple juice
Ingredients

  • 250g celery, fibers removed
  • 250g green apples
  • black pepper, to taste

Method

1st step: blend the clean celery and green apple in a blender, pepper to taste.
2nd Step: strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

Ham stock
Ingredients

  • 1Kg ham bones
  • 1l water

Method

1st step: pour an adequate quantity of water into a pot and bring to a boil. Add the ham bones and bring to a boil. Skim the top and allow to cook for 5 minutes.
2nd step: remove the bones and add to the quantity of water in the recipe. Place over a burner at level 9. When it starts boiling, reduce to level 2.
3rd step: leave overnight for 12 hours.

4th step: in the morning, strain and clarify.

Hot potato foam
Ingredients

  • 700g boiled, peeled Roosevelt potatoes
  • 170g Artajo extra virgin olive oil
  • 300g ham stock
  • 250g light cream

Method

1st step: place the potatoes on a steaming tray and steam for 50 minutes at 110ºC.
2nd step: remove and peal the potatoes, then combine with the ham stock in the thermomix.
3rd step: set the thermomix to the highest setting for 10 minutes at 60ºC, add the cream and the oil and blend at maximum speed for 4 minutes. Finish and salt to taste.

Cooked ear of iberico pork
Ingredients

  • 10 Iberico pork ears
  • 1l white wine
  • 1l water
  • 4 cayenne chilies
  • 2 soup spoons Chambo
  • 1 soup spoon sea salt
  • 10 cloves garlic
  • 20 whole black peppercorns

Method

Cut the ears from their base to leave them all at the same thickness. Set aside the discarded pieces for other preparations.With a blow torch, burn off all of the remaining hairs. Wash them well with running water and place in an Express AMC pot along with the rest of the ingredients. Close the pot and heat.Once the pressure has reached the yellow level, wait 1 hour and 45 minutes.When time has elapsed, remove the pot from hear, allow the pressure to drop before opening and it’s ready.

pork jowl
Ingredients

  • 1kg salt
  • 500g sugar
  • Saumure
  • 250g bell pepper
  • 15g butter
  • FILLING OF THE COOKING BAG PER BAG
  • 30-35g stock of the day

Method

1- wash and cube the jowl.
2- leave the fat so that it does not dry out in the oven.
3- Add to the saumure, covering on both sides for 4 hours.
4- Remove the saumure, washing the jowl one by one and drying them well.
5- Place the jowls in the cooking bags with a slice of butter (15g) and a ladle full of stock of the day (35g).
6- Seal with a vacuum packaging machine at level 9 for 42 seconds.
7- Cook in a Roner at 70ºC for 17 hours, then transfer to an ice water bath.
To sauté the jowl
First square off the jowl, then cut lengthwise at a thickness of 1.5cm. Warm when ordered and sauté on both sides in a very hot non stick pan.

Assembly
Method

Once all of the ingredients are prepared and, above all, hot and glazed, proceed with assembling the dish.

1. In a deep dish, place a teaspoon of the potato foam
2. Top with the hot roast ear.
3. Place a slice of super hot pork jowl over the ear.
4. Lastly, arrange the well glazed cheek with the pork juice.
5. On the cheek, place a few slices of chestnut, freshly cut with a truffle slicer, 3 onion shoots and 2 arugula sprouts.
On the same tray, place a hot jar with the ham stock, along with a small glass containing the celery and apple juice.
 

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Poached Lamb Loin With Curry, Sauteed With Roasted Lime

Lomo de Cordero Pochado Con Curry y Salteado Con Salsa De Lima Asada
Tristán
Cuoco: Gerhard Schwaiger
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 07081 Portals Nous (Mallorca).
Indirizzo: Puerto Portals, local 1.
971675547

Gerhard Schwaiger shines in situations where the magnitude of the main ingredient, the technique used in its preparation and the sauce become the true worth of the dish. This is such an example: the poached lamb loin with curry stock, sautéed with roasted lime sauce. The ingredients are superb, the preparation impeccable, and the result is exquisite and complex. The meat preserves its natural flavors and juiciness entirely, demonstrating its exquisite character, and the sauce is exciting in its abundance of fragrances and contrasts, well spiced and refreshing.



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For the lamb and the curry stock
Ingredients

  • 2 lamb loins, 400 g each
  • 4 spoonfuls olive oil
  • 4 unpeeled garlic cloves
  • 1 sprig of rosemary
  • 1.5 l water
  • trimmings of lamb loins
  • 1 unpeeled onion
  • 2 spoons curry
  • 1 small chilli
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 unpeeled garlic cloves
  • 1/2 l white wine
  • 1 sprig of thyme
  • 1 spoon coriander seeds
  • 1 spoon whole peppercorns
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Tomato And Violet Soup With Vegetable Stalks, Mollusks And Prawns

Tomato And Violet Soup With Vegetable Stalks, Mollusks And Prawns
Rodero
Cuoco: Koldo Rodero
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 31002 Pamplona (Navarra)
Indirizzo: C/Emilio Arrieta, 3
948211217

This is probably the most important dish that Koldo Rodero, a talented chef who tries to reach sensorial and artistic heights with each recipe, has created in the past few years. We do not know if it will keep its place on the menu; we doubt it very seriously, because it has natural and well-known flavors that are extraordinarily avant-garde. Immaculate ones, like the tomato soup. Delicious ones, like the oyster, cockles and prawn. Easily recognizable ones, like the orange juice vinaigrette and the pearls of the same fruit. Historic ones, like the sweet combination of tarragon and shellfish. There are also strong sensations, such as the violet perfume that impregnates and even accents the liquefied tomato and sage; the raw sensation produced by the prawns; the hard, live, crunchy, pure, fully stalk-like texture of the vegetables, which are also eaten raw in salad with a cut and treatment inspired in cardoon.
Intensity of sea and garden, garden and sea. Lightness, freshness, complexity, counterpoints, aesthetics… It has it all, expressed harmoniously in a language bursting with delicacy, sensibility and future.



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For the soup
Ingredients

  • ½ kg ripe tomatoes
  • 3 sage leaves
  • 1 gelatin sheet
  • 1 mg violet perfume
  • salt, sugar

Method

Liquefy the tomato and the sage.
Add the previously soaked gelatin sheet, heating a portion of the tomato soup.
Mix in the violet perfume and add salt and sugar to taste.

 

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Turbot With Dried Octopus Broth And Cream Of Carmelized Carrot

Turbot With Dried Octopus Broth And Cream Of Carmelized Carrot
Fagollaga
Cuoco: Isaac Salaberria
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 20120 Hernani (Gipuzkoa)
Indirizzo: Ctra. de Goizueta, 68. Barrio Ereñozu
943550031

Everything that defines Isaac Salaberria’s work, especially as far as seafood is concerned, is confirmed again in this recipe, for the umpteenth time. As always, it is composed of a main ingredient cooked at a low temperature submerged in oil, achieving a gustative and tactile naturality aspect that has no precedent. The fish filets, whole and with bones, are seasoned with grey Guérande salt for five minutes. They are then cut and confited in olive oil at 60º C for seven minutes. They are kept in their juices and, at serving time, are filtered with heat until acquiring a temperature of 40 degrees. On top of obtaining a new flavor from the turbot, notably different from raw, roasted, or boiled… it acquires a new texture, consistent, meaty to the bite but leaving a clean cut from the knife and a translucent, iridescent color, unique, which let clearly see as the tips of the fork penetrate. It is the same procedure that brought fame to the Mediterranean horse mackerel, the red mullet, the anchovies, the sardines, but surpassing its predecessors, perhaps because the technique finally reaches its zenith with this fish.
The style is enjoyable, with its minimalist construction and the intervention of the cream of caramelized carrot and the dried octopus broth, served in a shot glass, as usual, that must be sipped in intervals with the principal ingredient, playing to situate it before and after this and the other component.



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Ingredients

  • Wild turbot between 3-4 kg
  • Olive oil of the arbequina variety with 0’2º acidity
  • Guérande salt
  • Maldon salt
  • Chervil

Method

Cut the turbot into filets. Cover the filets with the Guérande salt for 6 minutes. Heat the oil to 60ºC and cook the turbot filets for 5 minutes. Set aside.

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Guggenheim Bilbao

Guggenheim Bilbao
Quique Dacosta Restaurante
Cuoco: Quique Dacosta
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 03700 Dénia
Indirizzo: Las Marinas, km. 3
965784179

The oyster never imagined it would end up being architecture, much less architecture so extravagant that it would be inspired by Frank Gehry’s museum in Bilbao. The sensible thing would have been to craft a rocky dish that echoed harmonies of the shell, but no, this dish takes on a galactic form and color. Galactic shellfish? Yes, and therein lies the madness: to take something so primitive, so basic, so wild, and give it a look from outer space. How? With titanium. Since when is titanium edible, you might ask? Apparently since now, because the only people dying at El Poblet are the ones that are keeling over from sheer pleasure, and it would seem that in that category there are many… Some swear it’s addictive. Others say it’s an aphrodisiac. What no one argues about is that we find ourselves before a most rare mating of elements. From what ancient recipe book did Quique Dacosta rob this idea? Is it true about the titanium or is it simply a strategy on the chef’s part to demonstrate how far he’s capable of going? True or not, it’s silver and titanium alloy, it shows all the signs, and that in itself is worthy of much merit.
However, if titanium and silver is the oyster, the oyster is also the oyster: warm, meaty, bursting with juices, drowning palates. What preparation does it undergo? It is simply warmed on the grill with a seasoning of juniper, and later dressed with four small cubes of lemon peel. It is placed over a gel made with the oyster itself, along with cockles, vegetables, and water, then gelatinized with aloe vera and lastly, to give it some color, the silver/titanium alloy is applied: a delicious gel that envelops the mollusk. This monumental construction is then crowned with a dried, crunchy version of that same gel that takes on the form of the Guggenheim museum.



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Cockle and oyster stock
Ingredients

  • 2 kg cockles
  • Carcasses of 1 kg of barnacles
  • 120 g shallots, halved
  • 16 oysters
  • 2 cloves of garlic, whole and unpeeled
  • 5 liters mineral water
  • 120 g aloe vera, raw, scalded three times

Method

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Cream Of Parmesan Reggiano With A Veil Of 6 Assorted Wild And Cultivated Basil Varieties And Pine Nuts

Cremoso de Parmesano con Velo de 6 Albahacas Silvestres y de Cultivo, con Piñon
Quique Dacosta Restaurante
Cuoco: Quique Dacosta
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 03700 Dénia
Indirizzo: Las Marinas, km. 3.
(+34) 965784179

We said it in the last edition of this guidebook: Quique Dacosta is conquering the world of the chef’s hats. One year later we must specify: he’s no longer conquering, he’s now officially established as a central figure.
In 2005 he has created a personal, distinctive style that places him among the very best worldwide with his experimental but solid cuisine and already numerous masterpieces : Guggenheim Bilbao; Cold spider crab soup with fennel and aerated aloe vera; Barnacles with hollowed zucchini, little spider crab juice, and licorice leaves; Foie gras with corn, corn sprouts and duck stock; Carneroli rice honeyed with aloe vera… as well as this astonishing triumph that transgresses the universality of the parmesano-reggiano, gastronomic patrimony of world cuisine.
Why transgress, you may ask? Because it embodies the notion of transmogrifying the consistency of such celebrated cheese, while at the same time preserving its flavorful identity. In place of the crystallized cheese, a delicate, evanescent cream of parmesano-reggiano and soymilk is offered that bursts in the mouth with such sublime flavor that it leaves a surprising and wonderful sensation. After the initial visual effect of the green, organic veil of 6 basils that arrive as if they had been planted in an aromatic garden of delicacies, the flavorful impact of the cheese envelops the palate. Ever inspired by the past, magical touches are then added to this superbly elegant revolution of Parmesan and basil: apple brunoise, toasted pine nuts, bread slices… harmony.
Gracious brilliance.



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Cream of Parmesan Reggiano and soymilk
Ingredients

  • 200 g Parmesan Reggiano reserve, 3 years
  • 500 g soymilk
  • 1 gelatin leaf

Method

We chop the Parmesan very fresh and place it in a blender. While heating the milk to 85ºC, we add the cheese to a low blender speed over the course of 5 minutes.
We pass it to a pastry bag and refrigerate. The product only lasts a single day. The creaminess and the magic unctuosity that the cheese attains in this mixture with the soymilk diminish 50% within 24 hours.
The plate should contain no more than 40 g of the mixture. It is imperative that the proportions are correct because although it is a second course on the menu and considered a salad, if we exceed ourselves with too much cream of parmesan it will saturate the palate, so a previous analysis must be made before serving.

 

For the velvety basil veil
Ingredients

  • 350 g liquidized chard (leaves only, no stems). Scald in boiling water for 10 seconds then refreshed in cold, unsalted water.
  • 300 g mineral water.
  • 3.4 g agar
  • 2 gelatin leaves
  • Icing salt

Method

We heat the mineral water then add in the agar and the gelatin leaves. We then remove it from the heat and when it cools to 64ºC, we mix in the liquidized, cold chard. Smoothing it out on a large tray so that we end up with a 2 mm high sheet.
We then cut it with a steel pasta cutter into pieces 10 cm in diameter and keep it cold until just before coating it with the cheese and soymilk mixture.

 

In addition
Ingredients

  • Zest of one ripe lemon (to aromatize the cheese once on the plate and before positioning the veil)
  • 6 raw pine nuts, to be placed on top of the veil.
  • 6 varieties of basil in different states. Seeds, sprouts, leaves, shoots, flowers and micro-vegetables.
  • Extra virgin arbequina olive oil
  • 6 cubes of granny Smith apple, of ½ x ½ cm.
  • Salt flakes.

Method

All positioned carefully on the velvet veil of basil and chard.
 

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Oysters With Distilled Earth

Oysters With Distilled Earth
El Celler de Can Roca
Cuoco: Joan Roca
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 17007 Girona
Indirizzo: Ctra. Taiala, 40.
972222157

The creative ability of the Roca brothers – Joan, Jordi and Josep – is beyond any doubt. The sheer number of awards for The Best Artistic Dishes obtained in recent years is sufficient testimony. They have received seven already, a number equaled by Martín Berasategui and exceeded only by Ferran Adrià, from “El Bulli”. Let’s recall the earlier achievements: the hot foie gras with lychees, rose petals and Gewürztraminer sorbet; the velouté of shellfish, fennel, tomato, sea urchin and caviar; the squab liver parfait with juniper, Bristol Cream, hazelnuts and orange; the Trésor of Lancôme; the Norway lobster and curry smoke with apples and Mediterranean lettuce; the grilled cep ice cream. Curiously, if these reflect the prevailing tendency of the house, influenced by the use of smoke – with an infinity of other examples in the actual menu of El Celler de Can Roca –, this dish countersigns another line that gives personality to the work: the distillations. These have achieved their glorious apex in this brilliant demonstration, and yet are capable of repulsing many by just hearing the title. Of course those who still feel attraction for the challenges and the unknown celebrate it enthusiastically, because what is more disconcerting than extracting the essence from the entrails? Aromas and mineral flavors, that express themselves with magnificent mildness at the first moment and that, after the oceanic passage of the shellfish, wager it all on the palate, where they settle in, providing an earthly sensation without precedent, profound – never stated better –, yet not aggressive. In short, surf and turf taken to its most minimalist end, from any point of view, that can be imagined.



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For the earth infusion
Ingredients

  • 400 g of earth from a damp forest
  • 1000 g of water
  • 2 g of agar-agar

Plus:

  • 4 Oysters

Method

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Truffle Soup With Pistachio And Tangerine Air

Truffle Soup With Pistachio And Tangerine Air
El Bulli
Cuoco: Ferran Adrià
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 17480 Roses
Indirizzo: Cala Montjoi, a 7 km. del centro urbano.
972150457

With this dish Ferran Adrià takes us on a journey through some of the classic flavors of the Spanish gastronomic culture. Without changing anything essential, through the purity of flavor inherent in all his work, he is capable of offering us an unprecedented vision of these immaculate tastes. What’s more, he achieves this by respecting, or rather by preserving, the historical references. The truffle smells like truffle, the pistachio tastes like pistachio, and the tangerine has the tang of a tangerine. Clarity and plentitude of the ingredients abound. His magic and talent are confirmed in the combinations. The blend is superb. Of course, tangerine, although it seems unlikely, is the perfect complement to the truffle, and the nut is inextricably linked to the fruit, but the pistachio and the truffle were hitherto an undiscovered romance: a conjunction that expresses the sentiment of the dish. The clairvoyance here, aside from the conjunctive discovery made, is manifested in the textures with the incorporation of his two brilliant and predominant techniques of 2005. On one hand, the airs, which in 2004 – the year of their creation (carrot) – seemed banal on their own, reach their extraordinary magnitude when used simply as seasoning. On the other hand, lyophilization, which permits the possibility of breaking down the flavor of products to their very essence – as do the airs – produces such diverse textures that in this case we find ourselves somewhere between a dry meringue and a dry biscuit. Textures, airy and crispy, are completed by a truffle soup with a light meat base linked by a product that makes it possible to achieve the desired body of a juice without the need to boil it and without losing a shred of its flavor: xanthan gum. Investigation. Adrià style.



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For the cream of peeled green pistachios
Ingredients

  • 140 g of green peeled pistachios
  • 240 g water

Method

1.Grind the green peeled pistachios with the water in a blender until obtaining a cream
2.Pour the resulting cream into a Paco Jet container and freeze at -20°C.
3.Once frozen, pass through the Paco Jet 3 times then defrost in the refrigerator for 3 h to obtain a light cream.
4.Maintain in the refrigerator.

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Thaw

Thaw
El Bulli
Cuoco: Ferran Adrià
Nazionalita: España
Localita: 17480 Roses (Girona)
Indirizzo: Cala Montjoi, a 7 km. del centro urbano.
(+34) 972150457

If, in comparison to other seasons, 2005 hasn’t been marked by a definitive theme for Ferran Adrià – for example the foams or hot gelatins of the past –, the featured technique of this year has been lyophilization. Once again, the genius of Roses takes his inspiration from the food industry to project the breadth of his imagination: unlimited and unique in culinary history. He does it proposing singular textures, diverse, that expose unprecedented tactile sensations in dry, savory cuisine. In this case, the author plays with the theme of one of his classics, a clean and pure forestal fragrance that he has used since his insolent, provocative era, when he introduced an ingredient hitherto unused in gastronomic circles: the green pinecone.
With this, he demonstrates the diversity of the flavor of the pinecone itself. He alters the intensity of the flavor, its consistency, and temperature. We find ourselves confronted with a palette of subtle tonalities within a single color – and color inspires the name of the dish. The green pinecone, after being submitted to the infusion, is transformed through “scientific” techniques into an ice cream, a frozen powder, a meringue and a dehydrated material. To such a monotone yet orchestral flavor, exciting counterpoints are applied, like coffee and licorice. For nature to continue expressing its splendor, for winter to give way to spring, a garden of micro-vegetables sprouts from the plate, germinating, flowering, insisting on nature and freshness. The dawn of a futuristic forest.



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For the infusion of the green pinecone
Ingredients

  • 480 g green pinecone
  • 600 g water
  • 75 g sugar
  • 0.6 g ascorbic acid

Method

1.Place the green pinecones in hot water for 1 minute to clean them.
2.Cut the pinecones in irregular pieces of 2 cm each.
3.Raise the water to a boil with the sugar and add the chopped pinecone.
4.Add the ascorbic acid and refrigerate for 24 hours.
5.Strain and keep in a superbag to refrigerate.

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