Vissani
www.casavissani.it
One of the greatest chefs in all of Italy with exceptional personal style who has universalized and immortalized his name - a communicator who has popularized gastronomy through television… there are so many facets to the great Gianfranco Vissani.
His restaurant is, to be frank, an luxurious dispensary where the client receives much more than what he pays for (and keep in mind that it is not cheap). Space, decoration, service… a palace subsidized by its owner that expresses its work with magnanimity. The cuisine is characterized by vigilant classicism. Historic patrimony is projected with personality through the work of Gianfranco. In this sense, we must say that he has a propensity for the Baroque, independently, regardless of whether or not it harmonizes with the surrounding style. Each recipe is charged with different elements, speaking to the great amount of work that goes into each creation. His dishes are the product of an immense amount of labor and an outstanding sapid balance. Intense or contrapuntal a priori flavors are manifested with subtlety, softened by the masterful technique at hand. The chef has an innate sense of good taste and infinite knowledge on the subject. Save a few exceptions, the preparations are painstakingly created, the doneness sublime: rice, pasta, shellfish, fish... In short, one can taste the innate talent of a personality that he created independently of influence, expressing his identity and the feeling of the region in every bite.
The cured anchovies with slightly whipped, salted Normandy butter is an hors d’oeuvre that clearly proves the importance of selecting stellar product, and what a highly professional team can then do with that product. Another mouth-watering detail: refined and succulent lampredotto with pumpkin puree and gelato mantecato. And the main courses: black hake served with crispy skin and an opaque, rosy center, with rosemary-cabbage soup, red bean puree, garlic bread crust, baby carrots, green asparagus and raw mushroom consommé is one of a thousand testimonies to the abundance of components and generosity that goes into each construction. The spaghetti, al dente - truly stiff - sprinkled to taste with Parmigiano-reggiano and pepper is, paradoxically, a work of art that embodies simplicity and modesty. The spelt-wheat ravioli with foie gras wrapped in black cabbage, served with sea urchin sauce becomes a delicious mixture on the plate where the conjunction of flavors prevails over the purity of the ingredients; easy and very gourmand. The carneroli risotto with oyster, covered by zucchini strips layered in crosses, served with pepper and basil sauce personifies historic texture and the marvelous flavor of the grain: the identity of the rice is maintained yet the succulence of the dish is quite concentrated. Another stellar moment came with the sautéed lobster with beef-orange sauce, eggplant puree with fresh oregano and a small bowl of baby meatball bisque. The traditionalists can order the Peking duckling with yellow pumpkin flan all’amarone, onion gratiné cooked with duck juices, chickpea gratiné, potato wafer, misticanza… God knows how many elements go into the dish, yet all are in perfect communion with the saintly tradition practiced here.
In a few words, a magnificent restaurant with conventional, virtuosic cuisine that inspires admiration.