Tristan

Gerhard Schwaiger continues to renovate his repertoire annually, leaving not a single dish from the previous year on the menu. The dishes are prepared in a stately manner, erudite and academic, with an undeniably professional touch made for a cosmopolitan clientele. The constructions are very structured and calculated, reflecting great knowledge, technique, refinement and a sensitive aesthetic. The dishes embody nobility, science and constancy. The product: meticulous and resolved. The design is almost always classical, refitted with modern touches. One can more or less connect with the chef’s taste, albeit a slightly German approach to gastronomy, but what is inarguable is the knowledge, discipline, efficiency, and the wide scope of the project, both culinary and of the restaurant. The terrace, which is always full and always adorned with bottles of Dom Pérignon on every table – the consumption of fine wines here is unparalleled by any other establishment in Spain – looks over what is probably the biggest yacht harbor in whole Europe. After all, extreme luxury is part of the landscape and of the citizens that give life and splendor to this solemn establishment.

The cuisine sparkles with brilliance when dealing with constructions where the magnitude of the main ingredient, the technique used for its preparation, and the sauce result in the absolute values of the dish.

As a testimony to this establishment, it suffices to mention the lightly smoked, roast sea bass with its rosy interior, spiced calamari (baharat), marinated tomatoes and surprising paella sauce. Next… the unforgettable giant scallop, roasted while still sealed in its shell, served over a puntalette pasta risotto with champagne; without a doubt, it is the best dish using this particular shellfish that we’ve tried this year in Spain – utter perfection. The new potatoes with artichokes and a generous serving of caviar constitute an irresistible gastronomic obscenity. The classic sole sandwich offers unquestionable results: two thick, tender, beautiful filets, subtly breaded (hence the name), filled with a mousse made from the same fish, served over an immaculate, colorful parsley ragù. The filet mignon of Galician beef wrapped in chard with Madeira sauce and roast potato croquettes proves the infinite class that distinguishes the chef. The red Parmesan with vitamins and wasabi peas represents an exaltation of raw product impregnated with a healthy dose of daring.

The service, headed by Claudio Marini, is magnanimously in consonance with the cuisine.