Torre del Saracino

Gennaro Esposito has gone through a radical culinary transformation. So radical that if you hadn’t visited the restaurant in the last two years you might very seriously doubt you’d ever been there in the first place. You wouldn’t recognize the premises, the menu – not a single dish. Nothing. However, the affable character of the owner remains; an ambitious chef gifted with talents enough to carry him far in the gastronomic world – a true champion. Nothing has been skimped on here, from the minimalist remodeling of the dining room to the phenomenally well-equipped kitchen – the entire structure of the establishment has undergone a very serious overhaul. But today, as always, the innate qualities of Gennaro remain: his great capacity for reasoning and his astonishing refinement that has evolved into consistent immaculate sapid expression. Purity, lightness, beauty, mental solidity – elements that form a part of his personal, modern style, all distinguished by his sense of essence. In short, it is a mental renovation, applying universal culinary criteria to the traditional flavors and qualities of the Campania region. The raw Mediterranean shellfish and fish, the endless types of pasta, the omnipresent tomato, the mozzarella and ricotta, the herbs… all come together to make the guest feel and taste the landscape. And in general the products here are exceptional, which greatly contributes to creating a truly charming atmosphere.
The candeli stuffed with shrimp pesto with seaweed infusion was the first spark of originality, sensitivity and exquisiteness that we were presented with. Suspicions were quickly confirmed by the small lasagne of Norway lobster, anchovies and cuttlefish; splendorous raw fish expressed in supreme balance. The spaghetti carbonara of sea urchin demonstrates yet again the consummate cooking times applied to the pasta and the precise flavors that they are impregnated with, and the care taken in not losing the smallest trace of their wonderful identity. The dried fig risotto with basil and cod confit is a prodigious creation of contrasts and harmony, releasing infinite intellectual and palatal satisfaction on the guest. The “egg in purgatory” with its sublime tomato sauce, white truffle slices and raw, hot shrimp is based on culinary arguments as familiar as they are irrefutable. And the squid (what flavor! what texture!) stuffed with chopped shellfish and vegetables, served over a bed of tomato and green beans is another exaltation of delicacy expressed with simplicity and daring. As for the quality of the fish, its freshness, juiciness and natural purity… the grilled red mullet with fennel cream, black olive pesto and subtle gnocchi is awe-inspiring. On his current path, Gennaro Esposito even dared to lighten up the gourmand Napolitan rum babbà, making it much more ethereal, spongy and delicate than before.
They receive a rise in qualification and may even go further in the next few months if they continue to mature and polish their style as they have been doing.