Sa.Qua.Na

Thanks to Jean François Piège of “Les Ambassadeurs” for introducing this marvelous restaurant to us, opened in 2005. At the helm is Alexandre Bourdas, a chef who established himself in the ranks of Michel Bras’ kitchen in Japan, something that clarifies many things about his cuisine. First, the obsession for raw product, always superb. Second, the impressive technical training, which shines through impeccable executions from the beginning to the end of the meal without a single error in the entire menu. The cooking times are fantastically precise. Then it is the ideas, always lucid; the flavors, always immaculate; the nuances, always balanced; the articulations, always reflective; the imagination, always well thought-out. Bourdas is a fine chef who distinguishes himself by the cerebral and methodical aspects of his work. There is not a single trace of improvisation – everything is studied, restudied and captured with an unshakeable meticulousness and rigorous discipline. What’s more, he has those natural gifts that set the chosen few apart from the rest, like an exquisite sense of taste and a truly astonishing talent.
Alexandre Bourdas has all it takes to become one of the most important chefs in Europe. He just needs time, the right team behind him, the means… the success he enjoys today will allow him to further solidify his already concrete project and continue to conquer the greatest of professional honors. We are fully convinced that soon he will merit a higher rating. And from there, it is a question of letting go of the reins on his personal style, accentuating his imagination in consonance with a freer and less inhibited cuisine.
His will and pragmatism remain patent in the suppression of the menu. The guest is faced with the option of two tasting menus, which change in length and price. Among the appetizers, a doctoral pascade aveyronnaise stood out: a kind of crepe in the shape of a tart that boasts a range of crispy and juicy textures, an exquisite sweet flavor and an unquestionable clean beauty; simplicity converted into supreme perfection. Another fine moment, bursting with immaculacy and contrasts: the poached lobster medallions with lime, celery leaves and cilantro, swimming in an exotic yet subtle broth perfumed with coconut milk and kaffir lime oil.
Such sensitivity!Such delicacy!What magical touches!
The quintessence of tomato: justly concentrated without altering its nature, stewed, served with abalone and cockles over a hazelnut-yoghurt cream. Another pluperfect creation: the fresh cod filet confit, revealing its iridescent slices, bursting with juices, crowned with a small cucumber-olive quenelle and adorned with a foamy jus of beurre noisette that is presented over a carpaccio of cauliflower and Iberian chorizo. Another construction that treasures erudition: the slice of foie gras au naturel, served with toasted cocoa bread, quinoa ragù with herb juices and fresh cheese. Sublime in its intrinsic delicacy and precise doneness, the squab breast with mustard sauce, white bean puree with half-salted pancetta with beet syrup with grapefruit. And thus the gastronomic dreams continued to be made reality.
In short, one of the young chefs who gives us most to talk about. Destined for global projection.