Sao Gabriel

In the heart of the Algarve is located this charming restaurant, with a select international clientele that demands cosmopolitan cuisine. In this case, it is clearly German in origin, as is the chef, Jens Rittmeyer; and it has Italian, Asian and other inluences. We must first highlight his knowledge; behind each dish lies great study, considerable intellectual effort and practice. In general, each recipe brings together quite a few elements, giving the food complexity, drama and richness. Varied and intense flavors in which the academic is mixed with exoticism in an eclectic style. The technique, very much in line with the Germanic character, is another of the relevant qualities; this is manifested in methodical and impeccable doneness, especially in the preparation of always-select vegetables and meats. In short, a serious, rigorous, professional, central European cuisine that is presented to the world with historical knowledge, modernizing impulses and a desire to please.

Jens has a special fondness for soups, with a separate section on the menu devoted to them. The cream of white asparagus with green asparagus bubbles shines with immaculate flavors and culinary excellence. The mushroom and quail consommé has rigor and potency. And lovers of explosive sensations should not miss the stew of curry and lemongrass—heat and freshness at the same time—exciting, of those dishes that incite the passions. The cream of pea ravioli with scarlet prawns, chopped potatoes and tomato sauce with shallot brunoise demonstrates the generosity embodied in each recipe. A generosity that is notable once and again with the added value of extraordinary tastiness: octopus with duck tongue, cock crests, crab, celery stalks, baby potatoes and a delicious lettuce juice.

The fish are characterized by a conventional culture: in their doneness, sides, seasoning, and for being served skinless. This is noticeable, for instance, in the filets of sole over white and green asparagus with almond-truffle sauce, or in the turbot over ginger risotto with star anise foam. The meat section is much more interesting; the roast lamb with sweet potato ravioli filled with the shoulder stewed with herbs stands out; served with sautéed artichokes, tomato and a subtle thyme sauce. Also masterful and very well executed is the roast squab—the breast bloody, the leg stewed and crisp—with broad beans and port sauce.