Sanxenxo

This opulent seafood house serves sumptuous oceanic treasures that are as majestic as the marine paradise that supplies them—the Domínguez family, Manuel and his son Diego, who is fully involved in the management of the establishment, always shell out whatever is necessary, and even something more, to obtain the best of the best. Consequently, one always visits one of the two Combarros in the hope of finding what can be found in very few restaurants: unforgettable experiences of yesteryear that, though seemingly improbable, not only are reaffirmed but sometimes surpassed. You have to see it to believe it. We mention it because our last feast there was the greatest banquet we’ve had at such a simple, grand table.

On this occasion, a Marín (Galicia) Norway lobster merited a 9.75; it was a giant one that approached 450 grams in weight and, along with another similar-sized one that we enjoyed at Ca Sento in Valencia, was the largest specimen we have ever tasted. With the added bonus that, after suggesting a short cooking time, it was flawless—outstanding. What dense, sweet, exquisite meat! Of course, the Galician style turbot was amazing, for the extraordinary size of the specimen, the quantity of fat it contained, the creaminess of the boiled potatoes and the impeccable ajada (sauce made with garlic and paprika), exquisite in its succulence, light in body, ethereal… worthy of a golden spoon. The pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus) also greatly impressed us, for two reasons: its solid, dense, al dente meat (yes, Italian-style al dente), and its marine, strong flavor to go with the texture. The cod and raisin empanada was also brilliant, because it best retained the intrinsic qualities of the ingredients in the filling. It was also less pretentious, with a delicate dough enhanced by the juiciness and character of what it was hiding without concealing.

Everyone knows that here, they can they can freely succumb to their impulses, although it’s a good idea to look at the display or ask what is good today in size and freshness. It could be barnacles, oysters, clams, shrimp, devil crabs, spider crabs—choose one of the “specially recommended” items—scallops, hake, sole, lamprey…always raw, cooked or in time-honored recipes.