Locanda della Tamerice

Igles Corelli is a name that stands out in the history of modern Italian cuisine and his popularity has been further propelled by regular appearances on TV.
However, he is a chef, so we will talk about him with regard to what we have seen on his plates...

Locanda della Tamarice is a place you visit with purpose.
It is located far from any major highways.
There are no famous landmarks, ancient ruins or shopping centers around for 20 miles.
In winter, snow is a daily obstacle to contend with, as are mosquitoes come summertime.
Nonetheless, this little corner of the world has many appealing aspects.

The Delta del Pol, with its nearby Laguna Veneto (Venice Lagoon), can be very interesting in terms of gastronomic discovery which, if you’re not a fisherman or hunter, can be surprising and fun.
Igles, who knows and understands the land here, came up with an original idea and what he offers at his restaurant gives the clients many reasons to return, partially for its uniqueness, but also because what he offers is done by the hands of a real creator.

The restaurant is part of a larger complex which is integrated into the Po Natural Park.
You can drive there by car but, if you prefer, it is possible to spend a lovely weekend on horseback as well.
In fact, this area is an authentic paradise for equestrians and gourmets alike.

In winter, though it is not far from the sea, the cuisine served is essentially earth-based, keeping in mind that birds don’t nest in the waves.
Though one might start off with the Eel marinated in 20 yr. old Módena balsamic vinegar served with passion fruit (perhaps the acidic aspect was slightly excessive here), the wild game hunt really begins afterwards, taking the guest on a journey dominated by flavor and pleasure.

The unusual Woodcock tartar, served with sultan pear mustard: an interesting pairing, and would be even more so if, in assembly, both components were arranged farther away from each other, perhaps even with an indication regarding the proper sequence of tasting. As it is there is a danger of undesirable flavor contamination that can occur. The pears end up overpowering the dish – nothing short of committing a sin to the delicately prepared woodcock.

The Risotto of teal (also called green-winged teal) is interesting, served with a nicely finished sabayon of Pecorino romano.
Teal is a species of duck native to the lagoon that feed on fish. It has an unusual, flavorful meat that expresses much personality.
The Pecorino romano also expresses its own personality, though it is in no way dominant in this dish.

The Mallard that followed the woodcock is one of the most preferred birds of hunters and gourmets.
Using very select product, they accompanied the dish with cinta senese brisket from Paolo Parisi and elder sauce.
The Wigeon (anas penelope) was interesting and rare.
It has a pleasant, original meat that when prepared wrapped in a pork crépinette is made even more captivating, especially (and it can be eaten rare) when it is served a little bloody. It comes with an excellent regional accompaniment: saba sauce (made from unfermented grape juice) and pumpkin compote.

The desserts are enjoyable, from the sabayon frozen mille-feuille to the apple-pumpkin bale with bitter orange sorbet.

The sommelier, Valentina, was knowledgeable but needed to get over her shyness a little to make the journey with Bacchus a truly original one, as we had, for example, with Timorasso of Claudia Mariotto.
The service was excellent: punctual, attentive, discreet and competent in their interaction with the guests.
The ambience is very pleasant, decorated with modern art – a light influence by the chef’s wife, Pia Passalacqua, who is also a reputed gastronomic writer and his ideal better half.