Las Torres

This is the real thing. Fernando Abadía in kitchen and his brother, Rafael, in the dining room, work cleanly, without gimmicks and with authority gained through experience and professionalism.

Independent of the time of year, the diner visiting this restaurant will always experience the direct, straightforward and accessible pleasure imparted by quality ingredients, arriving at the table prepared, but without any major artifices. Fernando has a proverbial ability to make seemingly simple dishes great, as well as to give center stage to the most elemental ingredients. Next to an exquisite ingredient, such as a wild turbot, for example, are served some unbelievable green beans, a Huesca garden tomato, lamb innards or a small sprig of basil. What’s more, on occasion it is these humble players, alone or accompanied by colleagues along the same line, that give special relevance to some of the dishes on the menu at Las Torres.

The basil gazpacho, with rolled chicken and wheat, is a welcome creation—a minimalist, visual and fragrant composition that pays tribute to the most prized aromatic herb in the capital of Huesca. Something similar occurs with the borage gazpacho, smoked cod cube and fried toast—a splendid show of simplicity, taking full advantage of this summer vegetable. The red mullet with tomatoes, onions in escabeche (oil and vinegar marinade) and Arbequina olives, nears perfection thanks to this extraordinary combination of ingredients, simplicity and subtlety. The grouper with ham velouté, garlic parfait and green bean crocant, however, is not quite so brilliant. The fish, arriving exultant to the table, as well as the green beans, also magnificent for their quality and preparation, are slightly hampered by the excessive flavor of the garlic and ham ensemble. He gets it completely right once again in the marinated cock leg, an extraordinary delicacy, served with an egg cooked at low temperature, and in the pork shank with wheat and lager puree. The alpicoz (a local cucumber variety) sorbet with virgin olive oil and chickpea sprouts is a truly stellar dessert.