La Taberna de Rotilio

Manicha Bermúdez has succeeded in turning the ‘Taberna de Rotilio’ into one of the most firmly footed restaurants in Galicia – an establishment that has won the support of an utterly loyal clientele which obliges one to call ahead and make the according reservation, especially in August when the area is bursting with people from all over the world. Manicha, another of the “grandes dames” of Galician cuisine, is a perfect example of what we might call the “middle man”: one who seeks the balance between traditional dishes, seen with a contemporary eye, and the numerous creations that are always present on the menu. A new dining area on the terrace of the building (the hotel) has been added to the already well-equipped establishment – open only at night, with impressive views of the river, it offers a closed menu of 58 euros (wine separate).
On the menu, as always, is the shellfish gallery, with a special note for the Sanxenxo river shrimp, but not forgetting the velvet and spider crab or barnacles either. A jewel of the house: the impressive scallop pastry, with a puff pastry formula that is practically a government secret – a memorable dish that should always be included in the order, even if only as a shared starter. Following, creative shellfish dishes (oysters, cockles…) or new formulas for octopus as well as the xoubas (sardinellas). The fish served here are splendid: classic recipes with a few recuperated forgotten formulas like the merluza mechada (hake) or new additions such as the filloa (pancake) papillote filled with red mullet and baby vegetables. The rice dishes with fish are always correct. In regard to the meat dishes, the callos a la gallega (tripe) with chickpeas is stellar, there are very good cuts of beef and they know how to prepare the farmed poultry as well as (or especially) the squab.
The desserts maintain a high level. The service is attentive and efficient, even when the restaurant is bursting at the seams with clients. And the wine list, recently reformed, is an authentic invitation to delight in the liquid side of things. Logically, the whites are dominated by Galician appelations, but the cellar is sufficiently well varied to include many caprices. In short, a solid house with a plausible culinary balance and a permanent fervor to do things well.