La Espadaña

This restaurant, located in the middle of an olive grove in an idyllic spot on the outskirts of Jaén, replete with gardens and ample installations, is nothing short of gastronomic luxury. The owners, Paulo and Leonardo Cruz, are devoted to artistic cuisine, as is the chef, José Luis Navas, who not only participates but even promulgates the philosophy of the house. Imaginative dishes are created to leave an impression on their guests, and that is exactly what they do, taking risks along the way by not pandering to more general tastes. Avant-garde trends and techniques abound, expressed exuberantly by the chef. Contrasts, the use of color, daring compositions… all a constant here.
Six impressive new additions to the menu in 2008: the first, a sliced, raw squid (in other words, carpaccio), truly delicate, beyond natural, magnified by the presence of other seafood (cockles and clams) and further accented by a subtle seasoning of acidic apple and lime. No less virtuous were the grilled marinated white asparagus, with an almost raw sensation to them, just hot, expressing purity of flavor and a smooth consistency, served with frozen sangria and wild strawberries. The risotto was a lucid construction, thickened with an exquisite cauliflower cream in lieu of butter and cheese, served over beet jelly, resulting in a visually and flavorfully colorful dish, accompanied by truffle, vegetables and olives. The juicy woodpigeon over a bed of spicy gachas manchegas is a nod to culinary traditions, conveying nobility and flavor, as well as an immense amount of pleasure… it steals your heart. And the fried canutillos with yoghurt, citrus fruits, frozen banana and ginger represent a final boasting of the chef, always chasing a gastronomic rainbow.
José Luis Navas reshapes the most successful and deserving recipes from past years, retouching them with new ideas. This is the case with the immaculate, sparkling sardines, marinated in blood orange served with an orange air, vegetables, Iberian cured ham and tomato water; or the lucid mackerel with a light cider marinade, smooth garlic emulsion and a refreshing cider foam; or the brilliant grenadine “stones” with cheese foam, pistachios, flowers and melon. In short, a cuisine that plays with your emotions.