La Credenza

Giovanni Grasso’s cuisine is above all noble. The use of stellar products is a standard, as is serving them with a good deal of generosity. Product here receives impeccable, methodical preparation. They arrive perfectly done, highlighting their intrinsic qualities. From there the chef conveys his message with two mediums: reinterpreted or reinvented traditional constructions and clearly original articulations, at times quite daring. In keeping with this approach, there is no doubt that the establishment has adopted a modern, personal style, in varying degrees of intensity.
The asparagus salad, served sliced and raw, with sprouts, shoots and carrot juice is infallibly natural, delicate, light and fresh, suggesting intelligence and simplicity. More doctoral, more academic, though still with its contrasts, the deboned quail cooked at low-temperature in olive oil, served over slices of grilled green apple and complemented, on a separate part of the plate, with a salad; carnal, technical and polished. A curious way of designing surf and turf: an expressive consommé of crustaceans swimming intercalated with traditional ravioli filled with smoked chicken, served with jellied spheres of green apple and red prawn. A controversial formula for its irreverence, with the shellfish disappearing in its support of the rice, is the buttery oyster risotto with cubes of smoked vegetable broth jelly enriched with soy–a special creation. The liquid squab ravioli is a talented display, explosive pasta, enormously flavorful, dressed with brushstrokes of beet and frozen butter powder. Another buttery rice, this one is topped with beef carpaccio, which takes heat from the temperature of the rice without actually getting cooked. Conventional and remarkably gourmand: the stuffed agnolotti, with none other than salame di Turgia and a satiating complement of potato cream. The noble lamb, with a full flavor, buttery texture, rosy center and splendid accompaniments is lightly impregnated with a coffee marinade, served over a sweet, creamy corn ragù and adorned with salad of aromatic herbs. The dessert section was in keeping with the rest, among which we must pick out the chocolate mousse with orange crème brulée served with a sphere made from the same fruit. And one should not miss the banana bavaroise with ice-blended coffee and almond mousse, timeless flavors projected with an exquisite contemporary touch.