La Cape

EsThis is one of the most established, promising revelations in French cuisine. Nicolas Magie, his wife Marianne, his brother and the rest of the team here convey a real passion for what they do, which is clear to all who visit. The clientele know it, which is why they pack into this vibrantly colorful violet and red chalet day and night: they’ve got balls. And this says a lot for the protagonists – they do what they want without any complexes about breaking molds or stepping outside the lines. They have brought this singular project to fruition by fully connecting with current urban sociological trends. Possibilist luxury, reasonable prices and a solid cuisine that in itself reinvents the Gallic culinary patrimony, uninhibitedly employing techniques of Ferran Adrià (foams, airs, gelatins, etc.). To make things perfectly clear: a parsley gelatin at the base of the plate, a few brushstrokes of garlic cream and escargots in a tempura made from the cited ingredients offers a moving vision of the traditional Burgundy recipe – unforgettable. Whatever the proposal might be, it is always progressive, more or less modern, with a common denominator of intelligence and the flavors are always elegantly expressed and arranged with immeasurable balance. Harmony is an unbreakable norm that is repeated without a single exception. There is no room for new tastes; the transformation is above all one of structure, concept, technique… very profound. Integral constructions, perfect doneness and exceptional raw product really abound – it is a marvelously rigorous approach to cuisine. And complexity… the recipes are physically and mentally elaborate without altering the immaculate nature of the components and tastes. In short, a cuisine that is true to itself and its clientele. And what’s more, they offer an unbeatable price-quality ratio.
The short menu of around a dozen proposals (plus the desserts) changes substantially with each season and is completely renovated every year. The main ingredients of the dish are in capitals. The NORWAY LOBSTER with apple jelly and juice is served with celery and truffle airs that lend themselves wonderfully to the shellfish: select product and fashionable accoutrements. The BEEF FILET is served in solemn forms expressing its purity: tartare with crispy avocado rolled into a thin escalope made from the same meat–raw delight!–accompanied by a refreshing sea urchin ice cream and microvegetables.
The SEA BASS, is simply roasted with a crispy skin and a rosy center, served with Gillardeau oysters, truffles and a marine reduction that was delightfully aromatic. The SOLE, deboned and reconstructed, filet on top of filet with truffle slices inserted between, is served over beans that are almost raw, a liquefied bean sauce and crowned with crispy and succulent breadcrumbs. The LAMPREY with red pepper air and jelly confirms the conceptual and technical recourses that the chef has on hand… in this case with a very concrete idea in mind. The BEEF TONGUE was tremendous, prepared low-temperature then grilled with oysters, pancetta and bordelaise, it has crispy elements that further the delicate nature of the creation on the palate.
This is a cuisine with a great amount of criteria; Nicolas Magie, an honest, serious and talented chef who awakens admiration in his guests. Truly honorable.