L´Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel

STOP THE PRESSES.
Possibly the most important vegetable cuisine in the world. The creator: Jean-Luc Rabanel. A GENIUS, we repeat, a GENIUS, who has created a style–a true break from the norm–with neither references nor similarities. Magical formulas with practically no seafood or meat whatsoever, where the few times they do appear it is in a symbolic role, below a mere secondary position. And without those beloved elements he manages to move, both in intellect and flavor, at every turn. Pure, remarkably natural, profound flavors that excite the palate. The aromatic herbs, in constant procession, the spices, the flowers, the stocks, the sauces, the dressings and, of course, the selection of vegetables, always of the finest quality, always bursting with freshness, always complementing the abundance. Never have the green fields of agriculture been so lush, so appetizing or so colorful. Each formula captures the best in culinary fantasy without detracting from nature in the slightest; on the contrary, the dishes intensify and increase it. And this is no easy task. There is an immense amount of reflection and work behind each construction, whether seemingly complicated and complex, the result is always balanced and unshakeable, speaking highly to the natural gifts of the chef and to the effort necessary on a daily basis. If, mentally speaking, this is an outstanding cuisine, the materializations, undoubtedly, deserve nearly as high of a grade. The professional solidity goes beyond circumstance – astonishing. Good taste is omnipresent: immaculateness and refinement in equal amounts. Infallibility, reflection, imagination… never ceasing to put forth sensible creativity. My friend and accomplished gourmet, Giorgio Grigliati, repeatedly exclaimed throughout the meal such expressions as: “A true revolution”, “Completely new”, “Impressive”. All that and more… This is an eminently regional, agricultural, creative cuisine – cultured – that delights in organic products, nature and the natural state of things. The greatest gastronomic inspiration to come out of the Provence region. Regional cuisine for the year 2027. In full swing of decadent regional cuisines, we find this insightful and peculiar reinvention. Provence and much more, 2027.
Jean-Luc Rabanel articulates his message without concessions: two surprising and set menus of 7 and 13 dishes. As such, the clients entrust all their confidence ahead of time in the chef. Since the dishes change frequently, there’s no need to go into too much detail. However, to whet one’s desire to visit, it suffices to mention the vegetable tempura, either carrots with cumin or salsifies, with two Thai sauces (soy or sweet and sour) is the most precise found anywhere, integrally preserving the quality of the vegetables while gracing them with the light breading and aromas. The tomato-orange stuffed tomato ravioli with sweet onion broth and wild herbs is nothing short of the most idyllic dream a Sicilian can imagine. The zucchini flowers holding a bed of crispy vegetables with apricots, pine nuts and Carthame oil, among other things, is an exciting walk through nuances, delighting yet again in the lightness of product. There was one indulgent dish: potato emulsion with toasted sesame oil and wild salmon escalope (simply warmed for a minute) served with mustard leaf, lemon and flowers. The mascarpone and yellow pepper foam with ginger and lemon thyme served with lyophilized vegetables juxtaposes hot and cold nuances onto the sweet creaminess of the dish. The salt-crusted guinea fowl perfumed with rosemary and bay leaves, accompanied by potatoes, garlic and scallions brings a few grams of rustic wisdom into the delicate equation.
As for the rest of the experience, the restaurant itself is simple and clean. The service staff is young. The prices are reasonable. In short, this is a bistro where one enjoys eating like one can only do here. For all that having been said, and for the short amount of time since its inauguration (spring 2006), consider the rating provisional. It can go much, much higher.