Gambero Rosso

Fulvio Pierangelini’s extreme shyness has made him improve infinitely, dictating a clairvoyant and reasoned message that is absolutely rewarded; intelligence and sensibility, or sensibility and intelligence, base and form, form and base, make up an extremely solid body of work that expresses sentiment, erudition…and great maturity. Cerebral, essential, concrete, very direct dishes in which there is never too much of anything. And they are subtle, extremely delicate, harmonious—they caress and excite the palate. This is a refined cuisine that reflects the chef’s privileged palate; he handles delicacies with the excellence that Cruyff or Benckenbauer had with the ball—beautifully, as only the superbly gifted can. He has the gift of exquisiteness and that of genius at the same time. In each formula, he expresses a calm fantasy with great virtuosity. Fulvio is capable of placing a cube of mortadella into a scallop’s entrails, using the resulting sausage as a condiment and emerging from the perilous leap with cheers, only to perform three more pirouettes in the plate that provoke some more “Bravissimo!”: the most sybaritic apple puree imaginable, topped with unforgettable slices of caramelized fennel and luminous encrusted pieces of pan d’oro. A 10, for perfection and imagination. The light presence of lemon magically expressed by the fish ravioli with seafood (Norway lobster and baby squid) cream converts the pasta into the epitome of freshness. Sea and citrus, a marriage reinvented with incredible talent. Art that approaches immortality in the tuna minestrone magro, “without liquid”: tuna medallions, golden and red, impregnated with a celestial red fruit marinade, served in the middle of a garden of vegetables sweetened by cooking them in syrup, and with the hint of warmth given, perhaps, by a touch of mustard. The burrata cheese soup with herring ravioli and mullet roe reveals its strong contents in the best possible tone; yet again, he produces impossible velvetiness in his work, in this case in the seasoning. The cod mantecato with which he receives diners is the first emblem of silkiness. This recipe has never reached such sybaritic heights! And we could continue compiling the greatest gastronomic aspirations, as with the rosemary or orientally-perfumed squab, with heavenly olive oil mashed potatoes worthy of Robuchon. And also with the desserts—the licorice ice cream with beet and the eggplant with spice ice cream are unforgettable, befitting a privileged being, privileged to interpret and create, in this case with exuberant minimalism. Bravo!

Pierangeline is one of the last remaining culinary artisans; personal, unique…making the difference on the burners. He and a pair of young assistants cook for the 14-20 privileged diners per day that have the immense fortune of attending this magnanimous manifestation of art. A supremely Italian ARTIST.