Flipot

A cuisine based in solid training, it is somewhat orthodox and assumes a subdued modernity situated midway between the culinary cultures of Italy and France in which it is inspired. The establishment’s mountain location also conditions the ingredients that give life to the dishes, evidently strong and always flavorful, as green as they may be. When articulating and combining flavors, the chef’s brain prevails over his heart to create very structured, methodically resolved recipes. Professionally, everything is wonderfully executed, though it is a bit lacking in warmth and expression of experience.

The starters epitomize the style: an eel, battered and fried and served with a small bowl of liquefied watercress and garnishes; and a mountain trout cone with vegetables and herbs; both are compelling and originally presented. The spectacle begins, and how, with the trout filet served over an incandescent Lucerne stone over which the sauce is poured, sizzling until it evaporates, with a cup of delicate smoked goose breast foam on one side and a colossal vegetable, aromatic herb and flower salad on the other. The show is great but the fish loses its optimal juiciness with the heat of the stone it sizzles on. Essentialism is radiantly expressed in the pikeperch filet, precisely and lightly cooked, to which succulence has been added in the form of a pancetta and glacier wormwood crust, served over a beautiful Jerusalem artichoke brunoise with its cream. The wild roe deer back salad with valerian, apples, toasted pine nuts… and a classic, hearty, very stimulating sauce made from the same meat, which becomes the tying element of the dish, makes us overindulge on strong flavors interspersed with freshness. The ravioli, supremely delicate in texture and filled with beef tripe, extraordinarily gluttonous with a very concentrated tomato oregano sauce and a Parmesan cookie, are unforgettable. Another delight: the milk gnocchetti served with a magical and refreshing lemon sauce and the charming bitterness of wild arugula. And the meats always stand out—the lamb, deer, rabbit, veal…impeccable from a technical point of view. The best example is the squab—buttery, bloody, immaculate in flavor, served with cabbage and foie gras, expertly prepared complements. Finishing with the orange gelatin with Grand Marnier is a must.