Agata e Romeo

Agata is a magnificent testament to the traditional values represented by women in the history of cooking. Her style sums up respect for the tradition, though modernized with respect to the doneness of the ingredients. Whether they be recipes of popular or school-taught origin, they always recall classic flavors, concepts and aesthetics. A noble cuisine, sustained by the excellence of the raw materials and distinguished by being delectable and satisfying. One appreciates dish after dish and revels in their succulence. All of the sauces and complements are flavorful and dense—they offer a more carnal than intellectual pleasure. We are here before an appetizing gastronomy, somewhat gourmand, evidently popular, made to satisfy the desires of those who take pleasure in recalling known flavors dolled out in contrasting harmonies.

The establishment works well with cod, pasta, risotto… choices that must always be considered. The hot cod salad with cauliflower, black olives, capers, sun-dried tomatoes an olive oil stands out for the intrinsic quality of its components, the consummate doneness of the main ingredient, the purity of flavors, its lightness, and also for the complexity expressed within a simple design. The ravioli with wild mussels and pumpkin in various shapes, forms and textures is an accomplished example of concentrated flavors. The pasta with tomato, sautéed bacon and cheese sauce has a certain appeal befitting a sacred dish. The risottos, “a la burrata” with capers and with radicchio trevisano (chicory) are made to saturate the palate, demonstrating technique in their execution. Another entirely praiseworthy suggestion is the poularde—succulent, tender and juicy, with dates, Indian figs and sculpted potato lattice.

Some recipes should be eased and lightened, like the tartlet stuffed with cow cheese cream and poached leek, crowned with fried leek strings and served with exquisite red peppercorn mashed potatoes. Gratifying, of course, but these days cuisine should not be so heavy. The body of the mushroom soup with mushrooms, saffron, pepper and potato could stand to be lessened, though it is exultant. In short, it would perhaps not be remiss to evolve a bit and refine—to refine in all senses of the word and make the food leaner.

The wine list, managed by Romeo, is impressive for its quantity and quality of wines, as well as the flawless wine service.