My “cima alla genovese”
Trussardi Alla Scala
Chef: Luigi Taglienti
Country: Italia
City: 21121 Milano
Address: Piazza della Scala, 5
(+39) 02.80688201restorante@marinoallascalla.it
A splendid deconstruction/reconstruction of a classic dish from Liguria (the region where the chef comes from). The “cima” is served practically broken down. Each one of its components are “reconstructed” in the dish according to the personal style of the chef, paying homage to his beloved Piedmont region in northern Italy. The distinct elements are arranged over a delicate cooked cream (panna cotta) with peas in such a way that the guest tastes, in different bites, the sweetbreads, the peas and the crunchy pine nuts, the quail egg, the chopped pieces of mortadella, the beef marrow and the rosy slices of beef as well as a subtle veil of green cream that gives consistency and body to the cima (the genius) of Luigi Taglienti.
The Recipe
Ingredients
Ingredients for 4 servings:
For the cooked cream with peas:
- 125 g spring pea puree
- 100 g cream
- 100 g free range egg white
- 6 g salt
- 3 g nutmeg
In a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix until obtaining a smooth, uniform consistency, strain through a chinoise and leave to set for a minimum of 6 hours at 2ºC/35.6ºF.
Separate the dough into equal parts on 4 deep plates, cover with baking paper and cook for 4 minutes in a steam oven at 85ºC/185ºF. Leave to cool.
For the “cima”:
- 80 g spring peas blanched without the skin in salted water for 2 minutes
- 60 g mortadella cut into a regular brunoise
- 40 g sweetbreads in 5 g pieces cooked in smoked salt crust
- 40 g toasted pine nuts
- 40 leaves of fresh marjoram
- 30 g beef marrow cut into normal sized pieces, sautéed.
- 30 g beef udder cut into small pieces, blanched in acidified water
- 30 g veal filet cooked in the steam oven to a temperature of 52ºC/127ºF at the heart of the meat, cut into thin slices
- 4 quail eggs cooked for 4 minutes in an abundant amount of salted water, cut in half lengthwise
Method
After reheating the sweetbreads, marrow and beef udder in the steam oven, place the pine nuts over the pea cream, arrange the quail egg, the peas, the sliced filet and the rest of the elements in a way as to recreate the “cima alla genovese”.
Top with fresh marjoram leaves and a drizzle of Taggiasca virgin olive oil.
The dish is served at room temperature, just like the original recipe.
The elements used are the same as the traditional dish. The only things that change are the shapes and textures.