On February 24th 2003, Bernard Loiseau, the Debussy of cuisine and perhaps the most communicative of the French chefs, ended his life. Dominique Loiseau, his wife, succeeded not by burying herself in grief but rather by choosing a path of renovation. You can still find a few house classics on the menu, but everything else is new. Patrick Bertron, who has worked in the Relais kitchen since 1982, now enjoys a freedom of self-expression that is without restriction.
