UAn excess, yes, but then perhaps brilliance is generally a bit excessive. Brilliance can be attained either by a boasting of the imagination, creating unprecedented combinations, or through the perfection of classic flavors. In this case we are dealing with an excess of knowledge, technique and refined succulence. It is difficult to say whether this is a fondue or an aligot, perhaps it falls somewhere between the two, in any case we find ourselves before an unmistakable cheese dish, truly substantial, that produces immense, even brazen pleasure. A recipe of cheese and rice, since the grain...