Esther Álvarez and Tomás Fernández’s restaurant has made a qualitative leap from what it has always been. For starters, the ingredients have gone from extraordinary to virtually exceptional. Having such good ingredients is difficult—be they meats, fish or vegetables—and Tomás speaks of them with true passion and knowledge. Superior quality that is accentuated on the grill, where he broils with intuition and experience. The beef chop, the glorification of the cow—whether it be the rib eye or the sirloin—makes the grade....
