Tavares

This restaurant is an historic, courtly Lisbon establishment that dates back to 1784. The scenic classicism contrasts with the new gastronomic period, initiated in the first months of 2008. The helm has been taken over by a young man who considers his national and international idols to be Luis Baena and Ferran Adrià, with whom he worked for a season. It is an admiration that speaks clearly to his culinary designs. At 28 years old he is already the number one chef in Portugal, everything pointing to the notion that he will lead the new generation, giving prestige to Portuguese cuisine and chefs (something which the colonialist ideals of the Michelin guide has overlooked while traditionally awarding their stars only to foreign chefs in Portugal). We are fully convinced that if José Avillez continues down his chosen path, training, illustrating his ideas… he will reach the highest heights. His sharp judgment is one of the first things to come to your attention. He has strict criteria with which he works… though his culinary personality is still waiting to be defined; something that is only logical at his age. He sees the role of product very clearly in his work: it is always stellar, playing a protagonist’s role in each dish that is also stellar. He has mastered his cooking times, manifesting an extraordinary sensitivity that is perceived in the flavors of his sauces: profound and sharp. He constructs with ease, with soul and with intelligence. And something even more fundamental, consistency is another characteristic that distinguishes this young chef. A progressive, sure, accessible cuisine that looks first to satisfying its clientele and only then to surprise. For this, he uses certain techniques borrowed from Adrià: airs, foams, spheres, jellies, etc. The hors d’oeuvre, an oyster in tempura with oyster yoghurt, seawater foam and lime zest, defines that tendency here: fine product with perfect doneness adorned with measured imagination and expressed within lucid constructions. This is confirmed with the scallop, seared, immaculate, encircled by a refined, translucent Alentejo pancetta that is flavorfully seasoned, with two attractive accompaniments: a sphere made with caviar substitute and an air of garlic and leek – impeccable. Along a more academic line we find the sautéed lobster covered with a gelatinous lemon verbena skin, served together with chicken liver and artichoke ravioli over a base of chicken broth with truffles – aristocratic. Superb product, superb doneness and superb accompaniments: sea bass lightly poached in seawater with saffron-perfumed seaweed, served with clams and spinach. The same can be said for the delicate red mullet filet, prepared in a salamander oven with juices from its livers and basil caviar. The squab with two cooking times, served with foie gras sauce, potato and apple slices and poppies was the final testimony to the impeccable, honorable stature of this rising artist. José Avillez: a chef who must be followed closely.